Richard Deveas is a man of few words: "Request beef curry stew (local style). Mahalo." It’s clear what he means, even in a world of countless curry options. Local style means the plate lunch version with your basic carrot-and-potato add-ins and your basic supermarket curry powder. More Japanese in style than Thai or Indian, meaning no coconut milk and no complex spice mixes.
So, for a man of few words, a recipe of little complexity. Simple, comforting, hearty. It originated with my cookbook partner, Muriel Miura, and comes from the cookbook we wrote together, "What Hawaii Likes to Eat" (Mutual Publishing, 2007).
For those who like complexity, there are many ways to dress this up. A cube of beef bouillon deepens the flavor, as do herbs and spices such as cilantro, ginger, turmeric, cardamom or chili peppers. And of course your choice of curry powder can run from the basic McCormick to a fancy imported blend. The locally made Kaiulani Spices Exotic Curry mix is organic.
Also looking for a curry recipe is Lauren Mineshima, who says her son has been asking that she make him a shrimp curry like his grandmother used to make. "Unfortunately, I don’t have my mom’s recipe. … I am desperate and wondering."
Mineshima remembers her mother’s curry sauce as "yellow and creamy." I can’t be sure this recipe will be a match, but at least it’s a starting point (the curry powder does make the sauce yellow).
To turn this recipe into a seafood curry, start with vegetable, chicken or fish stock; add the seasonings and vegetables and cook until the veggies are tender. Stir in fish, shrimp or other seafood and simmer a few minutes until cooked through.
This recipe also can be used with chicken or pork instead of beef. Follow the recipe as written; just be aware that chicken will cook faster. The carrots and celery can also be swapped out for other vegetables. I especially like cauliflower.
BEEF CURRY STEW
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds lean beef, cut in 1-inch cubes
2 large onions, in wedges
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 quart water
2 teaspoons salt, or more as needed
1 to 2 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon pepper
4 carrots, in 1-inch pieces
4 small potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 cup sliced celery
1/4 cup flour or cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup water
1/2 cup red wine
Heat oil in large pot; brown beef lightly. Add onion and garlic; brown lightly. Add water; cover and simmer 90 minutes or until beef is tender. Skim occasionally to remove foam on surface.
Add seasonings and vegetables; simmer 30 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender.
Stir in flour-water mixture and wine. Simmer until thickened. Serves 8.
Approximate nutritional value, per serving: 360 calories, 8 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 750 mg sodium, 42 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 29 g protein
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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write "By Request," Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813. Email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.
