Eat local, eat local, eat local. It’s become a mantra to anyone who’s paying the slightest attention.
And through the concerted efforts of farmers, food and agriculture activists, chefs and community organizers, products direct from farms are becoming easier and easier to access. Farmers markets are on the upswing, and community-supported agriculture baskets — subscriptions for local products direct from farmers and producers often referred to by the shorthand "CSA bag" — are plentiful.
But for many the daily schedule is packed tight. In addition to early morning and late afternoon commutes, there’s chauffeuring the kids to school and after-school activities. These families would be hard pressed to find an extra 20 minutes to pick up a CSA bag, much less visit a farmers market.
Contact San Shoppell at destinationchefhawaii@gmail.com
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2012 HAWAII AGRICULTURE CONFERENCE FOODIE PASS
>> Where: Hawai‘i Convention Center
>> When: Noon to 1:30 p.m. and 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday
>> Tickets: $75; purchase at www.hawaiiagconference.org
SCHEDULE
>> 100% Local Hawaii Products Awards Luncheon, noon to 1:30 p.m.
>> Reception (5 to 7 p.m.), featuring “CSA-Inspired Meals” with convention center chef Gary Matsumoto, “Cooking Within an Ahupuaa” with Mark Noguchi, “Chop Block Secrets” with Alejandro Briceno, “Makin’ It Easy, Farm-to-Table Goodness” with San Shoppell, “Preserving the Seasons” with John Memering, “Down to Pound” with Daniel Anthony and “Foraged Guava Jam Crostinis” by Palolo Community Kitchen
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For them the supermarket on the way home is the only realistic option. But that doesn’t mean they can’t jump on the eat-local bandwagon. Many isle supermarkets are now stocking their shelves with local products. Also, natural-food stores such as Kokua Market, Umeke Market, Down to Earth and Whole Foods carry a selection of local products.
Chef San Shoppell says she can’t always get to the farmers market, so she does a fair amount of supermarket shopping. Shoppell will share a few recipes using local products from supermarkets at the 2012 Hawaii Agriculture Conference on Thursday at the Hawai‘i Convention Center.
When she cooks, her goal is 70 percent local. Shoppell says that since she started cooking professionally in 2008, she’s seen the selection of local products grow each year.
"There’s more stuff and better variety and supply — enough variety to build a menu around local products," she said. "Personally, I don’t find it too difficult."
Key to shopping local is knowing the kinds of food grown and produced in Hawaii that are available in supermarkets. Here’s a list Shoppell rattled off from memory: won bok, green and purple cabbages, round and green onion, cucumber, watercress, tomatoes, strawberries, citrus, zucchini, corn, eggplant, mushrooms, salad greens and green beans.
Plus, items such as eggs, beef, pork, veal, tofu, pickled vegetables such as kim chee, and, of course, fish, are produced in the isles. Some stores also carry the cheeses and butters produced by Naked Cow Dairy.
Shoppell says it is important to read labels to ensure a product is local. Be discerning: An item labeled "distributed in Hawaii" doesn’t necessarily mean it’s grown in Hawaii.
"Good packaging will say where something’s grown," she said. "Farmers here are really trying to promote what’s locally sourced. Look for labeling that says, ‘From _____ Farm.’
"I especially like that Foodland distinguishes clearly what’s local, but when I don’t see a tag, I will ask. Most clerks are really helpful with that," she said. "If your supermarket doesn’t have enough local products, let the grocers know. If you ask for something, they will know what customers want."
Sometimes it might cost a little more to shop local. But there are ways to work around that, Shoppell says. If you buy what’s seasonal, you pay less. Also, try Costco.
"Costco does support local farmers who can meet their demand and standards of food safety," she said. "You can get cucumbers, lettuce and eggplant there for a fair price."
As for bringing it all to the dinner table on a regular basis, here are a few tips from Shoppell:
» Keep it manageable: Making an entire locally sourced meal is difficult, so have realistic goals. Go to the supermarket and see what’s on shelves. Once you know what’s available, try to have two or three things in your cart that are local. As you get more familiar with local products and how to use them, you can increase your purchases.
» Be prepared: Before you go shopping, have four or five recipes in mind that utilize local ingredients. You will likely be able to find some ingredients for a recipe or two.
» Be creative: Sometimes a dish is right under your nose; at other times it takes more creativity. An obvious quick and easy dish is fried rice. Think of the ingredients: local eggs and green onion, and locally produced Portuguese sausage and kim chee. A less obvious one is local-style ravioli: won ton wrappers, already cut thin and to shape, serve as the wrapping. Local eggs and cheese, and a few local herbs if you like, serve as the filling. Boil and simmer the wrappers a few minutes. For a quick tomato sauce, simply cook onions (local) and garlic in olive oil with basil or oregano (both local), then add tomatoes (local). Cook until tomatoes get very soft and start liquifying.
MAKE THE MOST OF FOOD IN CSA BAG
For those not limited to supermarket shopping, subscribing to receive a weekly community-supported agriculture bag provides you with fresh produce from local farmers, which means your money stays in the local economy. But for many, a CSA bag comes with its own set of challenges. You won’t know from week to week what you’ll be receiving — it’s a surprise bag.
Here are ways to make sure the surprises continue to be good ones, courtesy of Lisa Zeman, co-owner of Oahu Fresh, supplier for the Hawai‘i Convention Center’s demo on “CSA-Inspired Meals”:
>> Have basic pantry items on hand: Olive oil, garlic and butter allow you to work flexibly with whatever comes in the CSA bag. Most vegetables can be sautéed or roasted with these basic items. Bitter, dark leafy greens taste good with a splash of an additional, acidic ingredient such as orange juice or vinegar.
>> No need to get fancy: Many times the easiest preparation is the best. A quick stir-fry, or baking something like a sweet potato with butter and herbs, can be one of the most delicious ways to cook something.
>> Lots of herbs: Don’t be nervous if you receive a large quantity of fresh herbs, or ones you don’t recognize. Chop them up and cook them with fish or chicken. Add them to salads, mix them with butter or cream cheese. In replacing dried herbs with fresh, feel free to use more, since the flavor is not as concentrated. A quick recipe: Make a linguini with olive oil, cheese, butter, herbs and, if they’re in the box, fresh tomatoes. It’s easy, delicious and pretty.
>> Roasting: If you’re not familiar with a vegetable, it’s a good bet that roasting will make it taste good. Cut all pieces uniformly, toss generously with olive oil, season with salt and pepper (and other spices if you like), spread on a cookie sheet in a single layer, and throw it in a 425-degree oven. Check after 10 to 15 minutes, flip if it’s browned, and roast until well browned and very tender.
>> Asian veggies: If these are unfamiliar, slice a small bit off and taste. Decide whether it would work raw in a salad. If not, consider a quick sauté — Asian vegetables tend to be more delicate — with garlic and a splash of sesame oil at the end. Most Asian veggies pair well with milder proteins, such as fish, chicken and pork.
>> More recipes: A quick Google search is indispensable, and faster than opening up all the cookbooks.
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Visit www.oahufresh.com.
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