The lunar new year coincides with the urge to purge our closets of past fashion fiascos and the beginning of the spring fashion season. It’s an opportunity to start over in building our wardrobes, in hopes of getting it right this time.

Unfortunately, hope and optimism aren’t enough. You need a game plan and some rules.

It occurred to me that there are a lot of "rules" of fashion that confuse the average layperson because designers and stylists regularly break them. But there are two kinds of rules. There are style rules that come and go through the years and decades, depending on prevailing attitudes and whims. These are of no concern to those who don’t care about fashion.

Then there are the everyday rules of fit that apply to everyone, and the better you are at embracing them, the better you’ll look.

The problem is, these rules tend to be boring and repetitive. And when we go shopping, the marketplace is anything but. In light of all the eye candy, fools like me rush in and buy the prettiest thing off the rack, without much regard to the curves, bumps and protrusions I’d really prefer to mask.

So in the spirit of change, I embraced the rules of fit and dragged women with four classic trouble spots along to T.J. Maxx at Ward Village Shops, where I allotted an hour to search for two outfits for each.

The No. 1 rule of fashion is balance, and for women the most flattering look is one that creates the illusion of a classic hourglass figure, with shoulders and hips that are in proportion and a nipped-in waist. One other great tip: Know what decade your body shape was in fashion, and try to find outfits inspired by that decade.

With the rules in hand, in the form of an index card I made for each woman’s body type, we gave a boyish figure curves, toned down the busty, made the short look taller and kept a round opu under wraps.

After this little exercise, I find I’m more disciplined and focused as a shopper. During pre-spring sales, I was finally able to resist the urge to pull a cute top off the racks, and finally realize it was not for me.

stick
The stick figure is the envy of most women and the ideal of many of a fashion designer, with little or no curves to interfere with the flow of a garment. But many of these gazelles want to look more womanly and seek to choose garments that will add curves.

yes!
>> Under it all: The right bra can help create curves where they’re needed.
>> Tops: Blouses with details like ribbing or shirring are great picks. The extra detail adds an extra layer. Tops with cap sleeves also help define the shoulders. Blousons add shape as well. Peplum tops give the ideal look of a nipped-in waist and curvy hips.
>> Jackets: Look for styles with a nipped waist, or ruffle or breast pocket detail. Belted coats or jackets also help to define the waistline.
>> Bottoms: Pleated, trumpet, flared, A-line, pouf and pegged skirts are all flattering. Almost every style of jean looks great on you. This makes you the most hated girl, but revel in your ability to work the skinny jean.
>> Dresses: Bias-cut styles add curves. Angled seams are flattering for evening occasions. Detailing above or around the waist add femininity and flatter your straight frame.

just say no!
>> Tops: Tight V-necks overelongate the body. Stick with blouses and ruffles.
>> Bottoms: Stay from extremely full or baggy pants and straight, boxy miniskirts.
>> Dresses: Tight knit dresses.

short
The short tend to have the problem of looking more girly than grown-up, and can be overpowered by the wrong clothes. Clothes should create the illusion of a more elongated frame. Petites should avoid splitting their body in half with color or shape. This creates a boxy look.

yes!
>> Tops: Blouses that go just past your waist are most flattering. Tops that hit right at the hip lengthen the midriff. V-neck and scoop-neck tops are good basics. Belted wraps and fitted blazers create a grown-up look. Straight jacket and cardigans create a clean vertical line when worn open. Vertical patterns are elongating. Go easy on layering.
>> Bottoms: A classic A-line or pencil skirt works for most professional or formal occasions. Skirts should hit right above the knees. Boot-cut or straight jeans are the best style for elongating. Pin-stripe pants lengthen the legs and are excellent for work.
>> Dresses: V-neck styles automatically elongate the figure. Empire waists, sheaths or shirt-dresses gathered at the waist are perfect for petites.
>> Color: Stick to monochromatic outfits with a few color accents for interest.
>> Accessories: Choose items, including handbags, that fit your physique.

just say no!
>> Tops: Oversize tops and swing coats will overwhelm a small frame, as will big prints and patterns.
>> Dresses: Trapeze, blousy and many long dresses will swallow you.
>> Bottoms: Get rid of skirts that are too full or too long. Pants that are too wide, cuffed at the hem or stop at the ankle will make you look shorter.
>> Heels: A high heel is an obvious way to add height, but going overboard will make you look out of proportion. Avoid boots that end mid­shin and shoe straps around the ankle. Wedge heels may also look too boxy. Opt for thinner, more elegant styles.
>> Accessories: Oversize pieces may overwhelm you. Even if oversize handbags are trendy, opt for a smaller purse. Belts are best kept narrow.

busty
The busty can be the envy of the flat-chested, but without the right support, an ample cup size can make a woman look 10 pounds heavier than she really is. And female pulchritude can be distracting in the workplace, causing the busty to look less professional than sticklike counterparts.
yes!

>> Under it all: Wear an appropriate bra. A molded bra without seams or attention-getting lace is a good, modest choice.
>> Tops: Fitted V-neck or scoop neck tops that are not too tight. Boat- and cowl-neck styles also work. A men’s shirt is a great classic piece to have. The button-up shirt forms a subtle V-neck when opened at the collar. Look for styles that taper or nip your waist, and fitted sweaters that are not too tight.
>> Jackets: Find suits with multiple buttons. A higher closure will cover more of your bust.
>> Dresses: Body-slimming sheath dresses work well. For evening wear or cocktail attire, halter tops are flattering, but don’t go over the top if you want to look respectable.
>> Bottoms: A-line skirts and pencil skirts are great for professional occasions, as are elongating pinstripe pants.
>> Accessories: Earrings, eyewear and short necklaces draw eyes up to your face.
just say no!
>> Tops and dresses: Avoid embroidery, ruffles, gathering or shirring that draw attention to the bust, and flimsy fabrics that lack support. Shop for thicker cotton or sturdy textiles. Be cautious with empire waists. Make sure there is no extra fabric gathered or shirred around the bust.
>> Bottoms: Midthigh or narrow skirts make you seem top-heavy. Avoid super-skinny legs that might give you a “Big Bird” look.

round
Characterized by a generous bust and middle, this figure is a cause of anguish for many older women. But problem spots are easy to conquer with a few tricks, like avoiding anything that shortens the torso, avoiding super-short shorts and skirts, and never trying to cover up with baggy clothing that only add heft and volume.
yes!

>> Under it all: Wear the best bra possible. Lifting the bust line starts the waist-definition process.
>> Tops: V-necklines or elongated necklines help slenderize. Collars and lapels should be narrow and small so as not to accentuate a full top. Longer tunics help mask a generous middle. Wrap tops, mock wraps, tops with front or side ruching, and those with front knot detailing are flattering as the folds create curvature. Prints have a camouflage effect.
>> Jackets: You look best in single-breasted, structured jackets with V-shaped lapels that button below the bust because the “V-shape” created in front of the body has an hourglass effect. Make sure it’s nipped in at the waist. Or, leaving jackets open creates a slimming vertical line down the front.
>> Dresses: Bias cuts, sheaths in woven fabrics or weighty jersey dresses with a front knot under the bust create a waistline while skimming over any excess. Dresses with center front ruffle details and belted shirt dresses also work.
>> Bottoms: A tailored fit flatters your assets (legs). Knee-length structured pencil, bias-cut, trumpet and paneled A-line skirts are good choices. Choose pants with stretch, and flat-front, straight-leg, boot-cut or flared pants/jeans. Knee-length walk shorts are also great.
>> Accessories: Choose narrow belts that blend with colors you are wearing. Your sweet spot is often the smallest part of your torso, a little higher than your natural waistline. Handbags should hit at hip level or lower.
just say no!
>> Tops: Fitted pieces that accentuate a larger middle.
>> Bottoms: Avoid bulky or gathered skirts, and pleats and gathers on pants. Overly tapered pants will accentuate thin legs and make your top look larger.
>> Accessories: Wide belts will divide your body. Wear handbags at hip level and lower.