The cool kids have been generating all the buzz in Kakaako in recent years, from the graffiti artists of Pow Wow Hawaii to the food truck and pop-up purveyors.
What are the more grown-up restaurant establishments to do?
Well, borrowing a page from the event-driven business of newer startups and art galleries, they’re turning traditional dining into events worth marking on the calendar.
ITT, THIRD TUESDAY AT TANGÖ
Tangö Contemporary Cafe, 1288 Ala Moana Blvd. >> 593-7288
Hours: Seatings every third Tuesday
Cost: About $60 to $80 per person, including wine
TTT’s wine dinners have the double duty of keeping diners surprised while allowing chef Göran Streng to get creative, veering from Tangoe’s daily menu to offer varying cuisines paired with wines or other liquor from different regions.
The chef teams with local wine distributors to present new and novel or exclusive vintages on a theme, with expert insight into the grapes and terroir accompanying each glass the third Tuesday monthly.
June’s dinner was highlighted by selections by Kai Vodka.
This month Streng presented "Under the Tuscan Sun," an elegant and relaxing affair with participation from Youngs Market Co. of Hawaii.
Dinner opened with free-range, organic Jidori chicken liver pate on crostini, paired with a fruity Santa Martina Rosso 2009.
This was followed by a well-spiced angel hair pasta putanesca with Torcalvano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009.
The heavier main course comprised braised pork cheeks layered over a Tuscan white bean ragout and served with root vegetables and Tuscany’s full-bodied Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2007. This was my favorite wine of the evening, and the $62 bottle is available at Fujioka Wine Times.
Dinner finished with an amaretto panna cotta, untraditionally coupled with Castallare Vin Santo 2005. It was another inspired selection — an amber, earthy Tuscan wine with the scents of fruit, toasted almonds, toffee and spice cake which is not as sweet as the usual ports and moscatos.
The next event is a mystery because Streng doesn’t commit to a theme until the first of the month. But many people have a standing reservation, and it’s a popular destination for girl’s-night-out gatherings. July’s dinner was $67, although the cost can go up to more than $100 for an end-of-year holiday extravaganza.
Because the dinners are not advertised, the only way to find out what’s on the menu is to get on Tangö’s mailing list by calling Tami Orozco at 593-7288.
KAKAAKO KITCHEN TABLE 13
Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd. >> 596-7488
Hours: 6:30 p.m. Mondays
Cost: $35 per person; B.Y.O.B. No corkage.
In April 2009, Kakaako Kitchen launched a family-style Sunday vnight dinner called "Picnic on the Lanai." The success of that endeavor has led to the start of Table 13 this year.
Every month, chefs Russell Siu and Gilbert Crisostomo prepare a family-style meal for a host and 12 guests. This may be one of the best full-meal deals in town, at $35 per person for six to seven courses.
What’s more, its BYO beer or wine with no corkage.
July’s menu featured a seafood bounty that started with a crabmeat and avocado ceviche, followed by plump and juicy sauteed shrimp with garlic butter, baked scallops with macadamia nut pesto, a bay shrimp wedge salad with basil and blue cheese dressing, seafood bouillabaisse, roasted red potatoes and strawberries dressed with cinnamon brandy sauce.
Even with the most ravenous eaters, there is more than enough food to go around.
The concept is evolving to a "trust the chef" format to keep diners surprised, although they are welcome to suggest favored cuisines. It’s a little like having a personal chef at your service. Book a month ahead.
Meanwhile, Picnic on the Lanai is still going strong, and the next event, on Sunday, will feature fried calamari with roasted garlic and tomato aioli, Cajun fried oysters, spicy ahi nachos, grilled salmon, red potatoes, pan-seared scallops with mushrooms in lemon-and-garlic butter sauce, masago arare and furikake-crusted salmon, steamed broccoli with crabmeat and house-made watermelon sorbet.
———
Nadine Kam‘s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
