Every design that Carrington Manaola Yap creates comes from a spiritual place.
The hula dancer, choreographer and fashion designer comes from a family rooted in traditional native Hawaiian practices, whether it’s the art of creating the bark cloth called kapa, natural dyes or healing. His mother, kumu hula Nani Lim Yap, continues to be his mentor in all that he does.
MANAOLA THE RUNWAY SHOWS
» When: Red carpet opens at 5:30 p.m., fashion show starts at 7:30 p.m. Wednesday.
» Where: Honolulu Design Center, 1250 Kapiolani Blvd.
» Cost: $40 general admission; VIP Fashion Dinner at Stage Restaurant for $200; VIP Fashion Show Package for $100
» Info: manaolahawaii.com
|
"It’s all spiritually guided," said Yap, who goes simply by Manaola, which is also the name of his fashion line. "The concept of dressing our bodies as an altar that houses our spirit — that’s the sacredness that is Hawaiian fashion."
Manaola will roll out its fall/winter 2015 review and spring/summer 2016 preview, plus the debut of its first luxury shoe collection at Manaola The Runway Shows at Honolulu Design Center on Wednesday.
It’s the second show following "85 Looks," Manaola’s summer fashion show at the center, in June.
Following that show, Manaola’s fashions found a home at the Hula Lehua boutique, the line’s exclusive retail partner, at Ala Moana Center.
Every print he creates is inspired by the repetitious patterns found in nature, whether it’s the tooth of a shark or perforations of coral formations. Every print starts with an ohe kapala, or Hawaiian bamboo stamp carved with intricate designs. Yap carves each stamp by hand, then transfers the prints digitally onto modern textiles.
In Hawaiian fashion design, Yap says one seeks balance between Ku (god of war), which represents the masculine, and Hina (goddess of the moon), which represents the feminine. The balance between the masculine and the feminine can be found in his patterns. It’s a symmetry that he calls sacred geometry. It all comes from a hula perspective.
"For us, it’s function with purpose," he said. "Each print has different meanings and intentions. Every person has a different reaction and interaction with different pieces."
The 2015 summer line includes soft, flowing dresses and fluttery skirts with the signature pewa, a classic Hawaiian design found in many traditional native woodworks, along with slim-fitting men’s shirts imbued with the one-of-a-kind prints.
The contemporary patterns and shapes transcend cultural boundaries and have proven to appeal to a broad number of buyers at the retail store, according to Yap, regardless of whether they know much about Hawaiian culture or not.
The colors in the fall line are, likewise, inspired by nature. Among them are alae, a reddish-brownish hue reflecting the color of the volcanic clay, paired with black on a dress; koko red, a more intense red than alae; a golden earth; and olena (turmeric).
Yap has been the force behind more than 100 pieces on the runway that flowed from a pent-up desire to create new expressions of Hawaiian fashions over the past few months. He’s introducing another set of five prints at the show Wednesday.
He’s most excited, in particular, to introduce his first designer shoe — a red heel inspired by the intense glow of a new and setting sun — in his luxury heel collection.
"It’s the first time in history that a Hawaiian designer heel collection will ever be released," he said, "so this is going to be a historic event for Hawaii."
Yap, 28, grew up in Kohala on Hawaii island immersed in Hawaiian culture. He learned to sew at an early age from both his mother, who was meticulous about her costumes for dancers in the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival, and his grandmother, a seamstress for the U.S. Navy who cut her own patterns out of butcher paper.
Manaola has grown tremendously in less than a year — starting with a small line of canvas handbags, decorative throw pillows and men’s underwear that Yap launched last November. He showcased his first selection of women’s apparel at the Merrie Monarch in April, selling out in three days.
Now, he’s merging Hawaiian tradition with luxury fashion, looking at opening another retail store in Japan, and expanding into furniture design. As Manaola grows by leaps and bounds, he still remains grounded by dancing hula.
Prices for fashions in the Manaola couture line start at $300 and up, while items in the shoe collection begin at $200 and up. A pop-up store follows the fashion show.