At Vintage 1901 there isn’t a happy hour per se, but the haven for wine, cocktails and small plates at the Moana Surfrider IS all about pau hana, with cocktails served beginning at 5:30 p.m. and extending into the early evening.

It’s a good way to sample fare from Beachhouse in a casual setting, where it’s OK to share plates or have just a small plate and a cocktail. On that level it is a money saver. Above and beyond that, it’s a comfortable spot with delicious dishes, some of them quite generous.

The experience

The Moana is a grand old dame, and one feels called upon to behave oneself while on its premises. This really isn’t the place for loud wisecracking or a group of more than eight or so. What this is is a comfortable, sophisticated veranda dedicated to relaxing with a drink and a pupu, with a view of the historic banyan tree sheltering the Moana’s Beach Bar and the surf beyond, cooling sea breezes and, after 6:30 p.m., the wafting sounds of the hotel’s resident pianist.

Tough life: You’re in a cocooned alcove, swanning among the other lucky souls at the Moana while waiting for your libations. However, there is a slight disconnect between the space and its purpose, with no bartender or kitchen visible. It might help to have a stand for juice and water at the back, or something of the like to queue up your thirst. Nonetheless, the comfortable seating, ocean view and attentive servers help bridge the gap.

During monthly “Love of Libations” events, when mixologists and servers interact with guests as they experiment with cocktail mixings or food pairings, the space takes on an added liveliness and sense of purpose.

The events, held 5:30 to 7 p.m. on the second Friday of each month, are designed to highlight the Moana’s drinks and pupu. It’s one of the better deals offered at the Moana, at $25 including a cocktail, sangria and appetizer tastings, and self-parking at the Sheraton Kaiulani.

Today, Vintage 1901 offers “Love of Libations: Sangria,” the latest episode in the series.

On June 10, “Love of Libations” celebrates the “Art of Champagne.” On July 8 the theme is “Quick & Easy,” with cocktails incorporating summer fruit.

The food

I loved the food here. The delightful surprise (and something of a bargain, even) is the charcuterie and cheese platter ($18), served with generous wedges of three cheeses, prosciutto, salami, sweet, dried grapes still on the vine, pickled onion and a big basket of crackers. This can easily serve three or four and, if your appetite is light, could well be enough to sate your appetite for a happy hour.

If you’re looking for hearty fare, I also recommend the steak sliders, $15, two respectably full sandwiches served with a side of truffled Tater Tots. Warning: Don’t order the additional side of Potato Tots unless you’re really hungry; with their intense flavor, a few go a long way.

The Wagyu Beef Tartare “Nachos,” with bites of the marbled, rare beef on Okinawan (purple) potato chips, was a small plate, at $16, but the rich flavor was satisfying.

Also dainty: poke cups, with yellowfin ahi atop lettuce, $14.

Though I visited twice, I was unable to try chef David Lukela’s trout roe served on nori potato chips ($15), which sound delicious.

Lukela said there might be changes in the menu in coming weeks, as Vintage 1901 strives to keep things fresh. Stay tuned.

The drinks

A full range of cocktails are available, and as the name implies, there is also a full wine list. Wines by the glass are available for $9 to $20.

Several drinks have been crafted specially for the hotel, including the Paniolo, $12, made with Hawaii-farmed honey, silver mezcal, lime juice and a dash of Tajin, a spicy Mexican seasoning. The Kula Maui Mary, $12, incorporates island-distilled, organic Ocean Vodka, olives stuffed with Surfing Goat cheese and Ho Farms cherry tomatoes. A Signature Sassy Spiked Sangria (spiked with Grey Goose vodka and a citrus infusion) is $14.

The beer list is short but includes Kona Brewing Co. bottles, $7; Asahi, $8; Rogue Dead Guy Ale, $10; and Chimay Rouge Ale, $13.

The verdict

At Vintage 1901 the tastes are a cut above, and the drinks are fine. If your goal is to unwind after work, enjoy a tasty bite and keep your bank account in the black, this oceanside hideaway fits the bill.