Father, son share culinary dream

They graduated from rival Hilo schools, but blood is thicker than school colors for this father-and-son pair of chefs.

The father and Hilo High School graduate has his name on the recently opened Harvest by Roy Ellamar restaurant at the Bellagio Hotel and Casino on the Las Vegas Strip.

His son, Waiakea High grad Tayden Ellamar, is master cook at Joel Robuchon, the only restaurant in Las Vegas with three Michelin stars.

Both studied culinary arts at Hawaii Community College in Hilo, and Roy started his career in his hometown, working at Ken’s House of Pancakes and the old Fiascos restaurant and bar.

Tayden’s first cooking job was in Las Vegas, where he moved to be close to his dad.

“I applied at different restaurants in Hilo, but a lot of them wouldn’t take a chance on me,” he said. “I might still be in Hilo if I had gotten a cooking job.”

Roy got into the luxury hotel culinary scene while still on Hawaii island after a cross-island move to work at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. In 2004 he moved to Chicago to get some city experience and grow as a chef, he said. His career then took him to Beverly Hills, and in 2008 to Las Vegas, where he was executive chef at Sensi at the Bellagio, which Harvest has replaced.

Dominique Bertolone, Bellagio’s vice president of food and beverage, called Roy a “shining star” who was the only chef considered when it came time to revamp the Asian- Italian Sensi space.

The 7,000-square-foot restaurant opened late last year.

“Harvest was truly Roy’s vision, and his talent, technical skill and work ethic have made it what it is today,” Bertolone said.

It was Roy’s dream to one day have his name on a restaurant. “I’m really humbled by everything and blessed that the company has so much faith in me,” he said.

When Roy left Hilo, Tayden stayed with his mom, but they continued to nurture their father-son bond.

Tayden shared his father’s interests. “I’d always be calling him, asking questions about cooking, photography and stuff,” Tayden said. “Food was kind of our way of reconnecting, I guess.”

Tayden moved to Las Vegas in 2012 and works at what is akin to a temple of high-end French cuisine.

The standards and expectations at a restaurant where prices for a la carte dishes range from $127 to $250, and the 18-course tasting menu is $445 per person, were daunting, but Tayden quickly became familiar with how to execute dishes precisely.

At Harvest the average check is about $80.

“We call (the food) New American,” Roy said. “The philosophy is ingredients first, with seasonality in mind … and if the opportunity presents itself, ingredients that are also environmentally conscious.”

Harvest often serves invasive Asian carp and lion fish, to positive response.

Harvest also builds on the idea of dim sum carts with what Roy calls “snack wagons” to quickly serve guests in the restaurant’s lounge. “It’s just a fun way for guests to get something real quick … and we always have one type of poke,” he said.

Area publications have written glowing reviews about the restaurant, making particular note of its vegetarian options, especially the Brussels sprouts with maple syrup and bourbon soy, as well as the farro porridge.

“You could go to Harvest for the charred Brussels sprouts alone, simply a revelation,” The Las Vegas Weekly wrote.

Many Harvest customers are from Hawaii, Roy said, “I love to meet them, and we always take pictures with local people when they come to have dinner.”

His father’s success has been an inspiration, Tayden said.

“When he first had his name and photo up all over the hotel, I’d stop and take a picture every single time I’d see his name,” he said. “I’m pretty used to it now, like, ‘Oh, another magazine article.’”

Tayden’s dream also is to one day have his name on a restaurant, “but that’s in the long run. I’m going to set a whole bunch of goals for myself before that’s a goal.”

Asked about their first food stop on trips home to Hilo, both said without hesitation, “Kawamoto’s,” referring to Kawamoto Store, for nori chicken, corned beef hash, musubi and Korean chicken.

“The best okazuya anywhere,” Tayden said.

Calamansi Grilled Chicken or Pork

“One summer day Tayden and I picked calamansi limes from our neighbor’s tree and decided to make a marinade for grilled pork,” Roy said. “Tayden loved the marinade so much that I even adapted it for recipes I’ve used at Harvest. It works great on chicken, too! Now Tayden is all grown up, and we love to grill meats using the marinade while sipping on homemade shandies (beer-based cocktails) made with calamansi limes and the ubiquitous Hawaiian Sun Lilikoi passion fruit juice in the summer. Of course, we throw in some ‘green bottles’ as a nod to our island home!”

• 1 pound chicken thighs or thin-sliced pork butt
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
• 1 teaspoon red chili flakes
• 1 teaspoon cilantro, chopped
• >> Marinade:
• 1 cup calamansi lime juice
• 1/2 cup light soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 stalks lemongrass, minced fine
• 1-inch piece of ginger, grated fine
• 1 garlic clove, minced fine
• 2 tablespoons green onion, sliced fine
• 1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce

Combine marinade ingredients in a bowl; set aside 1/3. Pour the rest over chicken or pork and marinate 4-5 hours.

Grill over medium hot coals. Place reserved marinade in saucepan and gently simmer on the side of the grill to make a sauce. Use to baste meat as it grills.

Serve with toasted sesame seeds, chili flakes, cilantro and sauce.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Enjoy with a Calamansi Shandy: 1 bottle Heineken Light with 4 ounces calamansi juice and 4 ounces Hawaiian Sun passion fruit juice.