Is there any food in this world that better encompasses the versatility of culture, taste and social class than pizza? You can find pizza on the fanciest of menus and in the frozen section, with a topping list long or short, inside ovens or on grills at almost every possible temperature. Pizzas are among the most discussed and tweaked recipes of all time. Heck, I’ve made crusts out of cauliflower.

Because pizza is so easily adaptable, it isn’t surprising that our definition of the food is so broad. I have childhood memories of “pizza” on a cafeteria lunch tray that resembled pizza only in theory. I’d like to see the government try to regulate what can be labeled pizza, the same way ice cream must meet certain standards to be labeled as such. It needn’t go so far as to allow only traditional toppings, but I do hope microwavable crackers with cheese would be given an alternate name, perhaps “baked gluten with cheese.”

For the home chef, pizza is practical, though we often shy away from it because it seems like extra work. But really, it’s easy to find premade dough and crusts. Use what’s in the fridge for toppings.

While I use a large baking stone for pizza making, an alternative is an overturned baking sheet. Set your oven to the highest heat, and place the rack higher than usual. You will get a good, quick bake and the browning you want.

Pizza is highly customizable. This Okonomiyaki Pizza adds toppings typical of the Japanese grilled pancake.

Okonomiyaki Pizza

• Pizza dough (a ball the size of a small grapefruit)
• 1/3 cup white sauce (see note)
• Olive oil for brushing
• 1 cup mozzarella cheese
• 1/2 red potato, sliced thin and boiled for 3 minutes
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced char siu
• 4 green onions, sliced, white and light green parts only
• >> Optional toppings:
• 2 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons teriyaki sauce
• 2 teaspoons furikake

Place oven rack in the upper 1/3 of the oven. Place the pizza stone in cold oven; heat to 500 degrees.

On floured surface, roll out pizza dough in a 1/4-inch-thick circle, although shape doesn’t matter much. Make it look like Louisiana if it’s headed in that direction. (Keep rolling pin floured.)

Spread white sauce in a thin layer, leaving a 1-inch edge. Brush edge with olive oil. Sprinkle sauce with cheese, then scatter with potatoes, char siu and green onions. If you like, brush tops of potatoes with olive oil.

Stone should hold 500-degree temperature for 20 minutes before placing pizza on it. Bake about 8-10 minutes. If using a baking sheet, it may take a little longer. Check for browning on cheese and crust.

Do not remove stone from oven — just pizza. Let rest about 5 minutes before cutting. Serve while hot. Serves 1 to 2.

If desired, drizzle with mayonnaise and teriyaki sauce, then sprinkle with furikake.

Note: To make white sauce, melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a saucepan; stir in 3 tablespoons flour until smooth. Slowly stir in 1 cup milk. Raise heat to medium- high and simmer until thickened so that it can coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 1-1/2 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including optional toppings): 900 calories, 34 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 55 mg cholesterol, 2,000 mg sodium, 111 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 18 g sugar, 37 g protein.

Mariko Jackson blogs about family and food at thelittlefoodie.com. Her column runs on the last Wednesday of the month. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.