The pace of change is so quick these days, with tech-savvy teams fueled by the mindset that new is always better, that little time is spent reflecting on what might be right about the old ways. To suggest that old ways might even be better is to appear hopelessly stodgy and out of touch.
Hindsight is 20/20, but I can’t help but think that the architects of our commuter neighborhoods back in the 1940s and ’50s, coinciding with the birth of car culture, would have done well to study neighborhoods of the past. The beauty and efficiency of live-work areas from New York to Bali — where every home has its “warung” (shop) outside, from which families can sell their food specialties, fresh fruit, housewares or toiletries — make it possible to get to know one’s neighbors and never travel far to pick up necessities.
Today, as we try to wean ourselves away from fossil fuel, it’s almost impossible to get what we need without getting in a car, yet our Second City continues to be developed with the mentality of homes here, malls there.
I envy the people who live in neighborhoods where there are still corner stores and small community-driven eateries just a walk away.
Here are a couple:
KAIMANA KITCHEN
This sibling of Kapahulu Avenue’s Kaimana Farm Cafe popped up in the tiny 10th Avenue space that was formerly home to Your Kitchen.
Junko Ikawa has tried to keep two of the things people loved best about Your Kitchen, the pork bowl and shave ice, on her very limited menu.
KAIMANA KITCHEN
>> Where: 1423 10th Ave.
>> Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Fridays-Mondays and Wednesdays; closed Tuesdays and Thursdays (hours subject to change)
>> Cost: About $25 for two
To date she is offering a juicy pork belly bowl ($6.90 small, $8.90 large), a pork kakuni bowl using leaner (dryer) pork shoulder (same prices), and a choice of shoyu or spicy ahi poke bowls ($9.70 small, $11.90 large). All are served over white rice, and the pork bowls are capped with a hard-boiled egg, which past patrons will note just isn’t the same as Your Kitchen’s tempura egg.
But the pork belly and poke really hit the spot and leave enough room for dessert of shave ice ($4.50 small, $7.50 large). My favorite so far is the Strawberry Splash, which includes a melty, creamy house-made panna cotta, popping juice-filled boba and syrup of fresh strawberries.
Also popular is the Local Lover with condensed milk, haupia and mango, in addition to the panna cotta and popping boba. Other flavors are Matcha Milk, Kuromitsu Kinako and the occasional special such as Calpico Peach.
But what I love most about this place is the to-go deli counter stocked with nutritious salads Kaimana Farm Cafe is known for, such as a spicy tofu prepared poke style with shoyu and onions; lightly mashed Molokai sweet potato salad with edamame; tender slivered burdock with carrots; and hijiki salad ($3.90 each).
RED5
In searching for someone to run its cafe, geared toward serving neighborhood athletes and their families, The Oahu Club tapped the Urquidi family known for Ethel’s Grill.
But with the Ethel’s name came expectations of a full menu featuring such beloved specialties as ahi tataki and mochiko chicken, items hard to produce with limited facilities and a staff of two.
RED5
>> Where: 6800 Hawaii Kai Drive (Oahu Club)
>> Call: 394-2233
>> Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. Sundays
>> Cost: About $25 for two
So Marc Urquidi, brother of Ethel’s chef Robert Urquidi, recently took over the operation and re-dubbed the cafe Red5, a name that reflects his inner nerd. (“Red 5” is the call sign of the X-wing fighter that Luke Skywalker pilots in “Star Wars: Episode IV — A New Hope.”)
Marc Urquidi, an alumnus of Alan Wong’s restaurant, also helped to open two Roy’s restaurants and Montage at Kapalua Bay on Maui, and spent a year at MW restaurant before taking on this much more casual endeavor. He brings a discerning palate to elevated plate lunches that include rib-eye steak with a thick, garlicky chimichurri paste ($15) and such family favorites as meatloaf ($10.50) and chili with rice, cheddar cheese and corn chips ($9.75).
Those who seek a healthful option will find a beet and goat cheese salad ($9.50) tossed with greens, bean sprouts, cucumber and onion, but if it’s just a small salad you want, most of the entrees do come with the greens sans beets, or pickled daikon.
My favorites here are a meat lovers’ Red5 sandwich ($11.50) with tender barbecued brisket, Italian sausage, caramelized onions and coleslaw. It’s a picnic in your hands.
Another must-try is Urquidi’s coconut marlin ceviche (market price), perfection with coconut milk, lime juice, red onions and the heat of jalapenos. He finishes the dish with chicharrons.
He’s also collaborated with Tropilicious on exclusive ice cream ($1.75 per cup) flavors such as “Pirate Crunch” (vanilla with Capt. Crunch cereal) and “Unicorn,” which Urquidi simply describes as “magic.” I couldn’t tell you whether that’s true or not because it’s been sold out whenever I’ve been there.
To speed the order process, you’re welcome to call in your takeout orders to 394-2233.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.