Pizza can become a pretty heated discussion. Connoisseurs wax poetic about the perfect crust, the tastiest sauce and best combination of toppings. Some stick to the places that give the best bargain, some want it loaded, some thin and crispy.

Proudly ranking in that discussion is perhaps the most unique of the island’s pizza places, What It Dough – a proudly vegan outdoor eatery on Monsarrat Avenue.

The mobile, wood-fired oven has been around for about two years, moving around the island before settling into its current location next to Banan, a go-to food truck serving healthy desserts.

THE EXPERIENCE

The brilliant red burn of the oven and the billowing aroma of hot bread and freshly smoked veggies simmered in herb-filled sauces are like catnip for a famished eater. A feeling of simple prosperity comes from great food and community, especially when it’s all happening under the open sky.

The pizza oven is fired up Thursdays through Sundays, and while there’s no particular happy hour, the prices and pizza fit a pau-hana format all the time.

Friday brings the biggest happy-hour crowd, eager to shed the cares of a workweek while enjoying live music. Steve and the Flat-Earthers provide the tunes, strumming out nostalgic, classic-rock favorites from acts such as Creedence Clearwater Revival, Allman Brothers Band and the Eagles.

Regulars set the air abuzz greeting each other as they grab and go or settle into the breezy dining space — a charming setup of wooden benches and tables, accented with an array of potted succulents. Sturdy tarps hung from bamboo poles keep diners protected from the elements, and strings of party lights provide a cheery sparkle, though looking out at the foothills of Diamond Head at sunset is a pleasure unto itself. As for parking, several slots are available for early arrivals, and after those fill, there’s street parking.

THE FOOD

“Are you waiting on your pizza, too?” asks one customer in low tones, as though we’re all in on a special secret. And we are. The pie here is far from the usual staple, thick with cheese and heavy with meat and precut veggies. This is artisan pizza, with tomatoes sourced from Italy and produce all from local farms.

A slow-dough process is used, based on Italian recipes that allow it to sit and ferment for 48 hours, making it more readily digestible and giving it a more complex flavor profile, similar to sourdough. Owners Kip Praissman and girlfriend Krysti Lee share the details; they run the business together and can be seen diligently fashioning each pie like a work of art and tending to it in the oven.

Praissman and Lee make everything from scratch, and it’s all plant-derived. The pepperoni and sausage are seitan-based. The “mozzarella” is made from white beans, the imitation ricotta and Parmesan from almonds, and the “goat cheese” from macadamia nuts and cashews.

The menu includes five regular pie choices, from a simple Margherita to a deluxe, highlighted by the vegetarian pepperoni and sausage, with marinated peppers. Prices range from $17 to $21.

There’s also a special each week. These tend to have eye-catching names and surprising ingredients: The Bianco Rosa is sprinkled with pistachios; the Van Damme includes seitan “bacon,” Brussels sprouts and a drizzle of ranch dressing; the Okie Tokyo sports sweet corn, Yukon gold potatoes, a sesame seed crust and Sriracha-mayo drizzle.

Pizza with ingredients like that deserve to be eaten mindfully. The crust is spotted with crispy, blackened pockets that only wood fire ovens produce, and the inside is warm, soft and chewy. Every bite oozes zesty layers of deliciousness, and the cheeses Praissman creates bring nut-based varieties new acclaim. (Vegan soy choices on the market that tend to be either goopy or don’t melt are no part of this establishment.) Plain cheese slices can be had for $5, and two toppings can be added for $1.

On a recent Friday, Derek Stugelmeyer held court at a table with a group of family and friends who frequent What It Dough. He and his friends have made it a ritual to grab dessert first at Banan, because it closes earlier, then sit down to pizza. Though they don’t live close by, Stugelmeyer said they make the drive to enjoy the open-air atmosphere, BYOB option and the fact that What It Dough can cater to their party’s dietary preferences.

THE DRINK

Coconut water can be had for $2, but BYOB is the way to go.

Many diners bring their own wine and Champagne, while on-the-spot choices include a pick-me-up from the adjacent Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf or spirits from the Aloha gas station and food mart across the street.

THE VERDICT

What It Dough’s pizza is delicious, while the BYO option helps keep your spending in check. Don’t just drive by — this pizza joint is worth checking out.