On many local tables, New Year’s meals aren’t complete without that sumptuous platter of sashimi, row after row of fresh red ahi that never fails to stir the appetite. Yet it can be a challenge to stretch the holiday budget far enough to accommodate premium ahi prices.

This year, say a couple of fish experts, think beyond ahi and consider marlin; namely, kajiki (Pacific blue marlin) and nairagi (striped marlin). Earlier this week, kajiki was going for $8.95 a pound, and nairagi $9.95, at Tamashiro Market. Marlin are leaner than ahi.

Kajiki, white to pink in hue and firm-fleshed, is clean-tasting and refreshing, making it thoroughly enjoyable to eat raw. The occasional kajiki with some fat content has a richer flavor.

Nairagi, meanwhile, is favored for its tender flesh, which ranges in color from light pink to reddish orange. Like kajiki, nairagi is mild tasting, and about 10 percent of both fish have some fat content. These fish in particular are considered a good fit for sashimi.

But really, picking fish for sashimi is a personal preference, said Brooks Takenaka, general manager of the United Fishing Agency.

“Fish is fish,” he said. “For sashimi and poke, you can use anything, depending on your palate. Those in the know have always bought different kinds of fish (for sashimi) when they couldn’t afford ahi.”

In Hawaii last year, commercial fisherman brought to shore some 1.8 million pounds of kajiki and more than 880,000 pounds of nairagi, according to a report from the state Department of Land and Natural Resources.

Marlin has become especially budget friendly locally after a new federal law this year ended ­Hawaii’s exemption from a ban on selling billfish on the mainland. The 2012 ban came in response to overfishing in Atlantic waters. That means a greater supply of marlin is available in Hawaii — and with more supply comes lower pricing.

“If you’re on a budget, this looks to be a great alternative,” said Guy Tamashiro, vice president of Tamashiro Market. “The best grade marlin is probably going to be a whole lot cheaper than the best ahi — usually two or three times cheaper — most times of the year.”

Tamashiro said that while fat content makes specific fish popular, a lean fish also can be delicious and is sometimes even preferred. “A fish doesn’t have to have fat. It can still be very enjoyable.”

Nevertheless, the occasional fatty marlin means a richer flavor and therefore garners a higher price. Tamashiro said the fat in such a fish is toward the surface of the fish, near the skin. Little white lines in the flesh, located between bigger white lines, indicates fat.

This speaks to his next point: the best way to purchase a fish.

“Go in and take a look yourself rather than calling in your order,” he recommended. “We try to have different grades of fish, and we try to have more affordable fish, too. One way to do that is through smaller fish — it costs us less so we can sell it cheaper. That way, we don’t sacrifice quality.”

The best time to visit a market such as Tamashiro’s, where fresh fish is brought in daily, is in the morning when there’s a good selection. By the mid-to-late afternoon, the low- and high-end fish are gone.

Takenaka recommends regular trips to the fish market.

“Try different kinds of fish during other times of the year. It may be cheaper anyway. You may even find you prefer another fish to ahi,” he said. “The simple reality is it’s all raw fish, but it’s about quality and freshness. Ask a trusted fishmonger, ‘How is the marlin today?’

“Educate your palate. Do yourself a big favor and be better prepared for this time of the year, when price points are higher.”