Barfly: Ko’olau Distillery aims to make true Hawaii whiskey

You gotta start somewhere, and that’s exactly what the team behind Old Pali Road is doing near Kapaa Quarry on the windward side of Oahu.

Founded by two military veterans and a partner with years of liquor industry experience, Ko‘olau Distillery is the first to make it to market in Hawaii with locally produced whiskey.

(Maui’s Hali‘imaile Distilling Co. has produced its Paniolo brand of blended whiskey for a few years, but it’s made using sourced Kentucky distillate mixed with a Maui-made neutral spirit.)

“We’re not Hawaiian, but whatever you put in the bottle represents Hawaii,” said Ko‘olau Distillery co-founder Lt. Col. Ian Brooks. “We need to make sure we’re producing quality whiskey.”

Brooks and his business partner, Lt. Col. Eric Dill, both came to Hawaii via the military; both are in the Marines, with Dill still on active duty while Brooks serves in the reserves as base magistrate at Marine Corps Base Hawaii. A third partner, Heather Pence, handles sales and marketing.

In its current form, Old Pali Road is comprised almost entirely of Kentucky straight whiskey produced on the mainland. Pence wouldn’t divulge the source of their juice, but did say it comes from the same distillery that produces whiskey for use in national brands Tincup and Bulleit. A quick Google search shows those companies utilize Indiana-based MGP as their base distillate.

“Right now, that’s the only way we can do it,” she said. “The only way to get started with whiskey is time. Every time we do a run in Kailua, we’re barreling a little bit. Our goal is in three years to have a reserve of our own whiskey ready to go.”

Brooks said an Indiana distillery, Hotel Tango Whiskey, was the inspiration for the Old Pali Road operation, with Dill learning the whiskey-making ropes there before deciding to open up shop in Hawaii. And while the goal is to produce a product made locally, they also hope to remain true to the flavor profile introduced with their first batch of whiskey, which should be available in stores this month.

“That bold, straight-up flavor in the front is the way I feel whiskey is meant to be,” said Brooks. “Then after a while, you’ll get a bit of vanilla. It’ll linger on your palate. The water and the alkalinity stays on your tongue.”

Old Pali Road uses water drawn from the Halawa aquifer that is only filtered to remove chlorine; Ko‘olau Distillery also purchases corn grown at Aloun Farms along with product from Waimanalo Feed Feed and Farm Supply to create the sour mash used to distill the whiskey.

“I think we have a good-quality product to start with, and it’s only going to improve,” Brooks said. “The goal is to have a 5-year-old bourbon made here. That’s where we want to get to.”

A sample of Old Pali Road’s first production batch that I tasted was very easy to drink at 43 percent alcohol by volume, or 86 proof. Using second-fill oak barrels softens the wood flavor that can be prevalent in other whiskeys, and the inclusion of Hawaii-grown sweet corn translates into a sweet caramel note that complements the distillate.

Still, I can’t wait to try a bottle of whiskey made entirely in Hawaii. And I’d much rather drink something that’s barrel strength, not watered down to a lower proof.

“We want to make it consistent,” explained Brooks. “We want the bottles coming out now to be of the same quality in the future.”

Ko‘olau Distillery is working with Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii as a distributor; expect to see Old Pali Road selling for approximately $55 per bottle on store shelves this month. Visit koolaudistillery.com for information, or follow @koolaudistillery on Instagram.

WORK, PLAY, DRINK

It’s always fun to see new drinking options pop up in places you wouldn’t normally expect.

That’s what I thought when Waikiki Brewing Co. opened on Queen Street in the former Fresh Cafe space in 2017, or when Aloha Beer Co. opened down the street earlier that year.

Now Kakaako is home to a new hybrid venue that functions as a co-working space and coffee shop by day — and full-service craft cocktail bar by night.

WorkPlay celebrated its grand opening at 814 Ilaniwai St. last month, with 5,000 square feet of indoor/outdoor space that’s split into a number of rooms with themes like the White Room, Parlour, Whisky Library and Peacock Room.

It’s a fun place to explore, with art by Pow! Wow! Hawaii co-founder Jasper Wong on one wall and a handful of semi-hidden spaces that provide extra privacy when needed.

The drinks menu has the same whimsical attitude, with a lineup of cocktails for “Work” and another for “Play,” plus a tightly curated menu of beer and wine. Get familiar with WorkPlay’s coffee program via the All Nighter ($11.95), which stars a housemade cold brew alongside Sazerac rye whiskey, Averna amaro liqueur and Giffard orgeat.

Me? I’ll probably gravitate back to the “Play” side of things, where you’ll find the Unexpected Day Off ($11.95). The drink makes excellent use of Ko Hana agricole rum that’s — wait for it — unexpectedly paired with a foam made with WorkPlay’s house brew. I also like the tiki-style Drinks With the Boys ($11.95), which lead bartender Brittney Beach described as a modern take on the classic Penicillin cocktail. She mixes Famous Grouse Scotch with her own ginger syrup and fresh citrus, then tops it with a Laphroaig float to give it a smoky Islay-style kick.

An important thing to note for now — or at least until a daytime bartender is hired — is that cocktails are only served after 4 p.m. Get there too early, and all you’ll be able to order are shots. Food is also available (after a hiccup involving starting food service before its state Department of Health food-service permit was ready, resulting in a fine). Think small plates, tacos and desserts.

WorkPlay is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily except Sundays (until midnight Thursdays through Saturdays). Call 457-1322 or visit workplayhi.com.

Jason Genegabus has written about the local bar and drink scenes since 2001. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @honolulupulse or email jason@staradvertiser.com.