On Tap in Hawaii: Local breweries represent in national competition

There has never been a better time for local craft brewing. More breweries are in operation, producing the highest quality beers we’ve seen in the state.

It is not hard to find fresh, locally made beer on any island, in cans, bottles or on draft. By 2020 we can expect at least three more breweries to open on Oahu alone, taking the total number in the state to 18.

More breweries equals more competition, which usually leads to higher quality. This is something I’ve seen take place over the past six years as our state has gone from having very few options to dozens. For craft beer fans and even for the casual drinker, the growing competitiveness is fantastic, giving us more options and better beer to choose from.

Last week, our local breweries made an impressive showing in the 2019 U.S. Open Beer Championships in Oxford, Ohio, bringing home five medals. This event, featuring more than 7,000 beers from breweries around the world vying in 130 categories, is one of a few very large and prestigious annual competitions. Winning a medal is increasingly difficult in such a large, diverse field, so it is rather impressive that our tiny brewing community netted five.

Waikiki Brewing Co. scored in three categories with three vastly different beers. The Third Anniversary Rum Barrel-Aged Barleywine took the gold in the category for beers aged in rum barrels, beating out the legendary Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., a highlight for Waikiki’s brewmaster Joe Lorenzen.

Lorenzen, who helped start Waikiki Brewing and grew up in Chico, Calif., where Sierra Nevada is based, summed it up: “Kind of surreal to edge out one of your idols for the gold.”

Unfortunately this beer only makes rare appearances on draft at the brewery’s two locations, so if you see it promoted for a special event, don’t hesitate to get down there and try it.

Waikiki Brewing also claimed bronze medals for its Black Strap Molasses Porter and Jalapeno Mouth amber ale in categories for robust porters and chili pepper beers, respectively. Both of these beers are readily available in cans throughout the state. This isn’t the first award for the Black Strap porter. In 2017 it won a silver medal at the Great American Beer Festival and more recently took the gold at the 2019 Denver International Beer Competition.

Big Island Brewhaus in Waimea on Hawaii island is also on a medal roll with Odin’s Sword, a Baltic porter. The beer scored a silver medal at the U.S. Open, to go along with a gold medal won at the 2018 Great American Beer Festival. The small brewery has won numerous awards, a testament to how well made its beers are.

Baltic porters are similar in strength to Russian imperial stouts, with wonderful notes of dark chocolate and roasted coffee layered with rummy, raisin and licorice notes. Word has it that a few kegs of this award-winning beer are on Oahu now, so check your favorite craft beer bar to see if it’s being poured.

Maui Brewing Co. came home with a silver medal in the imperial IPA category for its Double Overhead Double IPA. Maui is no stranger to winning medals, recently taking the gold at the 2018 World Beer Cup for its Valley Isle ESB. Double Overhead Double IPA is available year round in cans and on draft throughout the state, so it should be easy to find if you’re curious to try this bold, assertively bitter and citrus-forward India pale ale.

Tim Golden, a certified cicerone, shares his obsession with all things craft beer on the third week of each month. He is part owner of Village Bottle Shop in Kakaako.