To celebrate important milestones, make a stunning stuffed fish in the Filipino tradition as the centerpiece for dinner. Carmelita Tayag Ho of East Honolulu learned to make this classic dish from her mother, Luming Tayag, growing up in Angeles City, Pampanga, northwest of Manila. She met her Hawaii-born husband, Edward, when he was an Air Force dentist stationed there.

Rellenong (stuffed) bangus (milkfish) is a dish for an auspicious occasion. It takes a time commitment — to make it properly you should marinade the fish head and skin for two days.

Ho said bangus is a perfect fish for the preparation because its skin is tough. You can stuff it snugly and the skin won’t tear. Her daughter, Nicole Ho Kimoto, learned this family recipe and wants to experiment with fresh local fish. “What local fish has tough skin?” she asked.

Bangus is the preferred fish at Filipino markets, usually sold frozen. In an unusual step, the fish is cut along the top rather than the bottom. Innards are removed, but the head, tail and belly are left intact. The flesh is then scraped out to leave an empty container for the stuffing.

The fish head and skin are salted, then soaked for two days in a marinade of soy sauce and calamansi juice.

Though the large spine is detached, it is reserved to add flavor during the cooking process. The technique is similar to simmering chicken bones to draw out additional flavor. Kimoto advises removing the rest of the bones after cooking the flesh, which makes the task much easier.

Other ingredients show the influence of the Spanish on Filipino cuisine. The fish flesh is briefly cooked and mixed with sauteed onions, tomatoes, potatoes, raisins and peas.

“Golden raisins are the best as they are lighter colored, but regular raisins are fine,” said Ho.

The filling is cooled, then stuffed into the marinated fish “shell.” Stuff the fish to look big and fat, said Ho, then use a needle and thread to sew it closed. The fish is then ready to be fried.

“Really, the fish is cooked three times,” Ho said. “First, the fish meat is poached in water, then it is added to the sauteed vegetables, then the entire stuffed fish is fried until crispy.”

The finished product, with its crisp skin, is just beautiful. The filling is inside is mild and tasty, and the skin is flavorful from the days of marinating.

Ho said almost every region in the Philippines has a variation of the stuffing. Some may use water chestnuts, others garlic or rice.

Presented on a traditional banana leaf, the stuffed fish is perfect to serve on a birthday, anniversary or any other special occasion. It is a labor of love.

RELLENONG BANGUS

By Carmelita Tayag Ho

• 1 (12-inch) long bangus (milkfish), cleaned
• 1 tablespoon rock salt
• Juice of 3 calamansi limes
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce (Silver Swan brand preferred), divided
• Water, to cover fish for cooking
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more to fry fish
• 1 head garlic, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 tomato, seeds removed and finely chopped
• 3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 1 carrot)
• 1 medium white potato, peeled and finely chopped
• Ground black pepper, to taste
• 1/4 cup golden raisins, soaked in water 15 minutes, then drained (may substitute dark raisins)
• 1/2 cup peas, defrosted if frozen; drained if canned
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 1 cup flour

Chopped cilantro and banana ketchup, for serving

Slice fish open along top; discard innards. Keep head, tail and belly intact. Use a spoon to carefully scrape meat from inside fish, being careful not to damage skin. Use scissors to cut both ends of spine; remove and set aside with meat from inside fish.

Rub fish skin with rock salt and place in tray. Pour calamansi juice and 3 tablespoons soy sauce over skin. Cover and refrigerate 2 days, or at least 1 hour.

Place fish meat and spine in large skillet; cover with water. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Over medium heat, simmer until meat turns white, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. Discard all bones.

In large skillet over medium, add oil. Saute garlic and onions until translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add tomatoes, carrots and potatoes. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Return fish meat to pan and season with salt and pepper. Add remaining soy sauce, raisins, peas and egg. Stir and remove from heat. Let cool.

Drain marinade from fish skin. Pat dry. Fill with cooled fish stuffing so fish looks fat. Use needle and thread to sew fish closed. Pat fish dry again. Coat with flour.

Add oil to deep pan or large skillet to depth of about 3 inches, enough to go halfway up the fish. Heat oil over medium-high (when surface shimmers, it is ready). Carefully add fish. Fry until dark brown, about 3 to 6 minutes per side. Check often to make sure it doesn’t burn.

Garnish with cilantro and serve with banana ketchup. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.