“Uchinanchu” is the term used by Okinawan immigrants and their descendants in Hawaii to identify themselves as an ethnic group distinct from the Yamatunchu or Naichi of Japan’s four main islands. In Okinawan language, it means “Okinawan people.” The uchinanchu were among the first immigrants that came to Hawaii searching for a better life and a lot of them worked on the plantations.
Recently, I attended the Taste of Okinawa event at the Pagoda ballroom. This cultural gathering featured not only the food, but the song, dance and spirit of a proud community. I enjoyed it and left that evening wanting to learn more about Uchinanchu, their history and their culture.
Okinawa is also one of five cultures around the world called the “Five Blue Zones,” based on the amount of centenarians living there. Research has been shown that food, beverage and diet, along with lifestyle and community, contribute to this longevity.
I haven’t been to Okinawa yet, but will in November while on a cruise. A lot of my friends are Uchinanchu and I love the food. Okinawa developed its unique cuisine, which differs from that of mainland Japan. It was influenced by China and later by the United States after World War II. Okinawa has a tropical environment and its own history as an independent kingdom. Many external influences as a result of being a prosperous trade hub with not only Japan and China but Southeast Asia, helped create somewhat of a melting pot cuisine and unique dishes.
At the Taste of Okinawa event, “taco rice” was served and one of the guests asked, “Why was it called this?” Someone explained that the influence of the U.S. military led to this dish. My favorite dish that night was the abura miso potama, a pork tamago onigiri. This was a Spam musubi with an Okinawan twist. It’s wrapped up like a folded-over rice sandwich around a slice of tamagoyaki omelet, Spam and pork fat miso. I was inspired to make one for myself one day with other ingredients. A potama can have an infinite amount of fillings, all natsukashii (nostalgic) for Uchinanchu.
I like dishes that tell a story. I resonate with making do with what you have in front of you and being resourceful, wasting nothing. Nothing represented that more than the musical string instrument made with an empty cookie tin from back in the day. I felt like all of a sudden, I wanted to learn to play it. Watching Sensei Frances Kuba dance was mesmerizing, graceful yet powerful. What was celebrated and shared with all, made me feel like I belonged.
There is much history and connection between Okinawa and Hawaii. After the Battle of Okinawa, there was much loss, devastation and everything wrong about what war brings. Their language and culture had been taken away; they were made to feel ashamed of who they were. I heard many times that evening about how they lost everything, and what helped give them the strength to go on was their music, song and dance. I could feel this spirit as they sang and performed — it was the spirit of the Uchinanchu.
“Pigs from the Sea” was an event where some locals from Hawaii raised more than $47,000 to purchase 550 pigs to go from Nebraska to Oregon to Okinawa on a month-long sea voyage to help replenish a hog industry that went from 140,000 to 2,000 pigs after the war.
Yuimaaru is about communities supporting one another, especially in times of need. History says so much; I am not intending to talk about anything lightly on the many tragic events. The Taste of Okinawa event showcased not only their food and culture, but told me a story of resiliency and perseverance, about strength and coming together.
What little I knew about Okinawa’s history was because I am always curious about how, why and what we eat today in modern-day Hawaii. I learned so much more in one short wonderful evening.
To the event organizers, thank you for having me.
Chef and restaurateur Alan Wong has wowed diners around the world for decades, and is known as one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Find his column in Crave every first Wednesday. Currently, Wong is dba Alan Wong’s Consulting Co.
