A balanced uni pasta is hard to find. But if yours is recognized by the president of Italy, chances are, you’re doing something right.

That’s the case for chef Tsutomu Ochiai, renowned as the creator of the uni pasta in Japan, and the executive chef of La Bettola Waikiki, located in the lobby of Alohilani Resort Waikiki Beach. Ochiai partnered with Hawaii restaurateur Hide Sakurai to launch La Bettola Waikiki — which officially grand-opened in August. The restaurant is notable as the chef’s first and only eatery outside of Japan.

“He (Ochiai) used to live in Sicily, the southern part of Italy,” Sakurai says. “Since there’s a lot of seafood there, that’s how he felt Hawaii is very similar to Sicily. He wants to transport diners from the shores of the Pacific Ocean to Mediterranean shores by blending Italian cuisine with Hawaii’s fresh, local ingredients and seafood.

“‘La Bettola’ literally means ‘hole in the wall,’ or tavern,” Sakurai adds. “You can find those taverns all over Italy. He (Ochiai) believes La Bettola is a place where everybody gathers to have fun and celebrate — eat, drink, love.”

While we did attend the grand opening, we waited until the restaurant had more staff and the menu had expanded before we returned for another dinner. While we had tried some of the eatery’s bestsellers at the grand opening — including airy, sliced prosciutto, burrata cheese and seasonal fruit — the new menu offers a wider variety of dishes to try.

We started with the Chef’s favorite bruschetta ($6, minimum three per order), which, indeed, is Ochiai’s go-to. The flaky, crispy-yet-buttery crostini — probably the best I’ve ever had — is topped with locally grown Kamuela tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil. The crostini steals the show; its texture is unforgettable.

We also loved un morse di riccio di mare ($9, minimum three per order) — sea urchin, sweet corn mousse and homemade consommé gelatin. The uni is creamy and buttery (it tasted fresh, not frozen), while the corn had a slightly sweet flavor. We also got the patate al forno ($14), thinly sliced potatoes with butter, rosemary and fresh citrus. While it was tasty, next time, I’ll pass, in order to save stomach space for the pastas.

Uni afficionados have to try the spaghetti ai riccio di mare ($40), which comprises sea urchin, anchovy, garlic, chives and chef’s secret cream sauce. After all, this is the dish Ochiai is known for (fun fact: he even received the “Ordine della Stella della Solidarieta Italiana” — Order of the Star of Italian Solidarity — in 2005). The source of the uni constantly changes (that day’s batch was from Santa Barbara), but the restaurant always goes through the same supplier. The dish was creamy yet balanced, and the uni truly shined.

For those who prefer classic pastas, go for the wagyu beef bolognese topped with burrata cheese and Parmigiano Reggiano ($40). The pasta is perfectly cooked al dente, and the sauce features a nice balance of tomato and hearty, beefy flavor.

If you’re craving meat, choose from dishes like wagyu bistecca with truffle sauce ($65), Kurobuta pork Milanese ($52) and braised wagyu beef cheek ($45). The latter features braised Black Angus beef cheek in a red wine reduction stew. While the beef boasts that melt-in-your-mouth texture and has a nice crust, I would have preferred the sauce to have a stronger flavor. Next time, I want to try the wagyu bistecca, since it comes with a truffle sauce.

The dessert menu also offers delicacies beyond gelato and affogato, all of which are made in house. We got macadamia tiramisu ($14) — this Italian staple has macadamia puree, caramel gelato, Hawaiian sea salt — and the creme brulee Basque cheesecake ($16), which is a new addition to the menu. I enjoy Basque cheesecake (which features an intentionally burnt exterior and creamy interior), and I was intrigued by this version, which featured thick, creamy caramelized gorgonzola. It’s a unique option and a good choice if you don’t want an overly sweet dessert, but you have to love gorgonzola to enjoy it. The tiramisu, meanwhile, had a robust coffee flavor balanced by the creamy housemade gelato.

If you’re dining at La Bettola during the holidays, be sure to check out the seasonal cocktails. Festive creations include Under the Mistletoe ($18), Nana’s Holiday Fizz ($17) and Naughty & Spice ($18), but I’m partial to Santa’s Milk & Cookies ($14). The sweeter mix of vanilla vodka, Baileys, amaretto, milk and a garnish of sprinkles was the best nightcap.