I’ve been writing this column for more than two-and-a-half years now and I am stunned that I had not previously highlighted this producer, as I always have a bottle readily available.
Laetitia Billiot is the fourth generation to estate-bottle Champagne at this domaine located wholly in the famed Grand Cru village of Ambonnay. The wines from Ambonnay are historically known for their heft and power which is why it is one of only 17 villages (of nearly 400 in Champagne) to achieve Grand Cru status. Billiot is an anomaly in the village: Laetitia grows her own grapes, a rarity in a village dominated by larger houses.
She further cemented her cult status for her methods of curtailing the inherent power that the ripe fruit that Ambonnay provides by producing wines that are equally as fresh as they are rich. This is done by blocking a process called malolactic fermentation (MLF). MLF is a conversion of the tart, malic acid (think, green apple) to lactic acid (think, butter and cream). By completely avoiding this process, Billiot ensures the grapes retain as much freshness as possible and provide a necessary mouthwatering component to the final wine. She argues that each of her 18 parcels she farms always achieve a high degree of maturity and ripeness, so there is no need for MLF to soften the wine further.
Each of her wines rest in the cellar until an order is placed. This might lead to a lack of uniformity, but it makes up for it in freshness and precision. These are the decisions an artisanal, independent producer can autonomously make and execute. The entire estate produces less than 4,000 cases a year, which allows them to move swiftly and ensure that each bottle is treated with the utmost care. It also means that supply is very limited. Hawaii recently received a shipment, just in time for your New Year’s celebration.
Champagne H. Billiot Fils, Rosé Brut, NV
The richness of the Ambonnay is on full display here. It is framed by an intense sweet strawberry and rose water aroma. I keep finding different things to like about the wine with each sip. The slightest hint of apple cider vinegar (I mean this in the best way) brings about a new dimension and lends itself to being a great potluck wine that works well with our local cuisine.
Do yourself a favor and drink out of a white wine glass to showcase the aromas in their best light. There is plenty of persistence in the fine bubble, so that you won’t lose the texture that makes great Champagne, great.
Cost: $65/bottle.
Champagne H. Billiot, Millésime Brut, 2014
This is a vintage Champagne that punches way above its price class and is offering immediate pleasure for those lucky enough to get their hands on it. The current release at the winery is from the 2018 vintage.
In recent years, Billiot has chosen to shorten the time from bottling to release of its vintage champagne, but in 2014 the wine spent 84 months resting in the cellar, further increasing its complexity.
It’s a special occasion wine worthy of lobster and caviar, but don’t let that stop you from drinking it with whatever food you have on hand; leftover banchan, simple egg dishes and potato chips (truffle being my pick) would do just as well.
Cost: $90/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
