Edwin Ohta is carrying a torch for one of his favorite meals:"I cannot find any place that serves old-fashioned-style hamburger steak," Ohta wrote.

His gold standard was the version served at New Liberty Grill, a Fort Street Mall haunt for more than 60 years until it closed in 2010. "It was soooo good. It came with fried onions and brown gravy. It closed, and I did not get a chance to eat it that one last time."

Well, I have a recipe, from Albert Uehara, who worked in the restaurant kitchen from 2003 to 2010. I made a batch and it was very, very good.

But neither of us can swear it is an exact match for Liberty’s. Uehara dictated this recipe over the phone, from memory, estimating as he went. "This is all eyeball," he said. Or, to defer to another of the senses: "Everything is through taste. You have to go by taste."

Also, the key to this dish is the brown gravy, and the key to that is the stock, which was made from scratch using bones left over from other dishes, as well as vegetable scraps. The chance that you will hit on the right combination is unlikely.

To further complicate things, Liberty changed hands in 2003, and the previous owners kept their recipe a secret.

So I’m not calling this the exact New Liberty Grill Hamburger Steak, but rather a fine recipe for old-fashioned hamburger steak that should kindle memories for those who ate at Liberty in its last years.

Hamburger Steak with Fried Onions and Brown Gravy

2 slices white bread, minced
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch pepper
Pinch MSG (optional)
2 tablespoons minced onion
3 tablespoons water
1-1/2 pounds ground beef, 80 percent lean
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, sliced
» Gravy:
1/4 cup margarine
1/4 cup flour
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon chicken base (see note)
1/4 teaspoon beef base (see note)
4 cups beef stock, preferably homemade from soup bones
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch pepper
Pinch MSG (optional)
1/2 teaspoon browning agent such as Kitchen Bouquet (optional)

To make gravy: Melt margarine in medium pot over medium heat. Add flour and stir to make a paste (roux). Cook until lightly brown. Stir in tomato paste, chicken and beef bases. Slowly add stock, stirring to incorporate roux. Reduce heat to simmer and let thicken, stirring occasionally. Season with salt, pepper, MSG and browning agent, if using. For thicker gravy dissolve 1/4 cup flour in 1/4 cup water and add slowly to gravy, stirring constantly to prevent lumps (if gravy does have lumps, strain).

Combine bread, salt, pepper, MSG if using and onion. Gradually add water, mixing just until bread is very soft (use more water if necessary). Add beef and mix gently by hand. Form into 8 balls.

In skillet, heat oil on medium-high. Add onions and saute until beginning to brown. Remove from skillet.

Add balls of meat to skillet and flatten with spatula to make burger patties. Cook until done (5 to 10 minutes per side). Remove from skillet. Top patties with onions and gravy. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving (not including optional ingredients and estimating 1/2 cup gravy per serving): 630 calories, 47 g total fat, 15 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 1,200 mg sodium, 16 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 3 g sugar, 34 g protein

Ingredient note: Chicken and beef base are pastes sold in most supermarkets in the soup aisle. They can be used to add flavor to soups, stews and gravies. Very little is used in this recipe, so if you are leery of investing in two whole jars, you can just use one or the other, or substitute bouillon cubes.

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S. Write “By Request,” Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to  bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.