To say Mark Suiso is passionate about what he does is an understatement. The Makaha Mangoes CEO’s love of the fruit spans generations.
"In my grandfather’s day a family would get a piece of land, first plant a mango tree in the best spot, then they would figure out where to build the house," he said. "In those days everyone had a fruit tree and a vegetable garden and would share. You ate what you could grow and what was in season."
His ties to food go beyond affection. He has a philosophy and politics about food. He is appalled that homeowner associations ban fruit trees and home gardens in some neighborhoods because they may be unsightly.
"What kind of place have we become? Food is from the land, not from the grocery store," he said.
There are no ornamental plants in Suiso’s Makaha yard, and he tells his wife, Candy, that if they can’t eat it, the plant is gone.
On the parcel bought by his grandfather in the 1950s, he grows about 40 mango trees and many varieties including Mapulehu, Rapozas, Lancitia and Pope. A huge variety of edibles include lilikoi, ong choy, avocado, limes, kale, lettuce, taro, green onions, tomatoes and garlic chives.
The farmer, who is a banker by day, looks at things in a practical way. When the grass in Suiso’s yard grew too tall, he brought in sheep and goats to graze on it rather than mow it himself.
When they started eating the low-hanging leaves and fruit of the mango trees, he moved them to his brother’s nearby lot. Now there are a few goats and about 20 sheep. After the new lambs are born, there will be too many animals for the area, so he’ll slaughter a lamb (a year-old sheep) or a hogget, a sheep that is 2 to 3 years old.
"I get teased about it but I’m unapologetic. People are pretentious. They eat meat, but they don’t want to know it comes from an animal. We appreciate the animal and use the entire thing. It’s the honorable thing to do," Suiso explained.
The day before he plans to roast the meat, Suiso invites friends to help with the slaughter and dressing. He says it is young women who are most interested in knowing how to process the animal.
The following day, he will marinate the meat for about two hours in olive oil, garlic, salt and rosemary. In the backyard he will set up a manual spit that will suspend the meat over a low to medium fire.
That spit will become the gathering place for a group of friends. For two to three hours, they will share duties turning the spit while talking story and enjoying a few beers.
When the lamb reaches an internal temperature of 160 degrees, it’s done, and no doubt everyone will start picking on favorite morsels.
Such outdoor get-togethers bring back good memories of New Year’s Eves past, says Suiso, when his father would kill a pig and roast it over a spit, and family and friends would come over.
Today, Suiso’s neighbors help feed and care for the sheep. The Kepka family — Paul, Kelli, Kanoe and Kainoa — considers the animals more as pets than a source of protein, but they understand Suiso’s ideals as a food producer.
While a reporter was on a recent visit, someone from a Honolulu juice bar drove up with a truckload of fruit peels and scraps.
Suiso was happy to take the piles of banana peels and melon rinds for the sheep.
Educating others about producing more of our own food is Suiso’s crusade. His contribution is one mango — or farm-raised roast — at a time.
Gardening often brings unexpected dividends
Mark Suiso is adamant that having a garden and fruit trees improves one’s quality of life.
A garden allows a person to take children and grandchildren outside and help them develop an appreciation of where and how food is grown.
"It’s sad. I have friends who come over to show their children what a mango tree looks like. They come here like it’s the zoo," he said.
"I look at people and categorize them into producers or consumers. If they want to produce food, I am happy to share what I know about mangoes, and I’ll help them in any way I can."
If you’re completely new to gardening, Suiso recommends you start with a plant that has a high probability of success, such as green onions, herbs or bananas. If you’re short on space but want a tree, try a dwarf fruit tree from Frankie’s Nursery in Waimanalo. The most important thing: Just start.
Suiso says there’s a saying that goes, "Growing mangoes is 1 part mango, 2 parts water and 3 parts prayer." Nevertheless, he has a few tips for those considering a mango tree in their yard:
» Find out whether the trees can thrive in your area. High elevations, and some neighborhoods, such as Manoa, are not conducive to growing mangoes because they are too wet, he said. Mangoes like sun and generally thrive in elevations under 500 feet.
» In some cases, specific varieties thrive in specific areas. For instance, Mapulehu does well in Makaha but not in Kaimuki, where a fungus attacks the plant. Do some quick online research to figure out which varieties are best suited to where you live.
» Suiso says a common mistake is failing to prune a tree before it grows taller than a house. Once they grow that large, they become unmanageable.
Lynette Lo Tom is fascinated by foods that were cooked "back in the day." Contact her at 275-3004 or lynette@brightlightcookery.com if you know a home cook who has a specialty.
