Visiting Maui? Ask around for a happy hour recommendation and chances are good that someone will suggest the Monkeypod Kitchen in Wailea. Its reputation is such that folks will talk it up from miles away, if they figure you might be cruising in that direction. There’s good reason for that.

Monkeypod, the less formal restaurant group operated by chef Peter Merriman, is a treat. This spot in Wailea is finely tuned, sunny during afternoon pau hana, and designed with its island setting in mind, in tropical tones that will remind you of lilikoi and papaya.

The food is ono, served prettily and also well thought out, with gourmet flavor accents and satisfying servings. And during happy hour, pupu are half price! Get yourself there.

The experience

There’s not really a view from Monkeypod, as it’s in the middle of a shopping development above Wailea, but there’s a cheery upscale vibe to the site that compensates. The folks who can afford to live or visit here are living the good life, at least for the moment. You don’t have to be wealthy to come during happy hour, though; tables near me on my Saturday-afternoon visit were filled with construction workers just off their shifts, and moms with kids in tow, getting an early dinner after a beach day.

Sit anywhere during happy hour. The bar and lounge area is lined with windows, brightly back-lit under afternoon sun. Generous table seating is divided into sections to make the restaurant seem more intimate.

There’s also an option for dining and drinking outside, which is what I chose. That may expose you to some buzzing insects, particularly if fish is on your plate, but otherwise gives the chance to further soak up Maui’s gorgeous blue skies.

The food

Pizzas are offered at half-off or better during pau hana, all at $9, regularly $16.95 and $18.95 — but the pizza would not be my top recommendation.

The Proletariat, my order, was indeed fairly pedestrian, with a thin, undistinguished crust, and a thin layer of toppings that included pepperoni and sausage. It came at a good price for someone who really needs to fill up, but if enjoying items that show off chef Merriman’s style is your aim, you’d be better off with other items.

I was far more impressed with my other plates, including a veggie plate with babaghanoush, served with taro chips ($7, regularly $13.95). The colors on this fresh plate jumped out at me, and the garlicky babaghanoush and crispy veggies made for an invigorating, healthy snack.

Lobster Deviled Eggs, dainty with a dab of lobster on top ($7.95, regularly $15.95) were tangy and creamy, with the lobster providing a bite of marine flavor.

The Wood-Roasted Chicken Wings ($8.50, regularly $16.95) again showed off Merriman’s knack for elevating a dish, made with kiawe-roasted, free-range chicken embellished with garlic, Kula Farm rosemary and, delightfully, Greek-style tzatziki dip.

Ahi poke tacos and the raw bar mix plate appetizer, both $21.95, are excluded from the half-price deal.

The drink

Monkeypod offers 36 microbrews; that rocks. Beers regularly priced at $9 and up are $3 off; anything under $9 is offered at $4.75. As the restaurant explains on its website, draft beer is favored here, because it creates less waste — a nice touch. And the beer is preserved through a state-of-the-art “Blizzard” system, guaranteeing that your pint is served at 29 degrees — refreshing!

I love beer, and was delighted by the long draft menu, which includes many island-brewed options — but when I saw Monkeypod’s trademark version of a mai tai come out to another customer, I changed course.

The Monkeypod Mai Tai ($9.50 during happy hour, regularly $13) is not too strong, not too syrupy, but so, so right. Made with a mix of Old Lahaina light rum and Maui Dark rum, lime, mac-nut orgeat, orange curacao, it’s delish. The topper, in more ways than one, is a honey-lilikoi foam that should be stirred into your drink at the table. Highly recommended.

Other drinks offered from the Culinary Cocktails menu, all discounted to $9.50 during pau hana, are likely just as finely crafted. They include a Don Jefe made with Del Maguey Vida mezcal (it’s organic!), Byrrh Quinqina (a French aperitif), Meletti Amaro and orange bitters. You get the picture.

The verdict

Monkeypod does everything right, and islanders in the know are on to it. This spot jams, and fills up by the time happy hour is ending, so get there early if you can.