Many years ago, almost two decades ago — jeez, am I that old? — I started signing my name to this column. I just this moment did the math and realized I’ve been chasing recipes for “By Request” for a third of my life. Half of my adult life.

I’m not sure how I feel about that. I guess any negative emotions would be pointless, though, so I’m going with “amused.”

Anyway, a few years into my tenure, a “By Request” cookbook was released, and a few years after that, a second book. Both are now out of print. Which brings us to now.

A third “By Request” cookbook launches today. It’s subtitled “Highlights” and includes top recipes from the first two books, with 36 new ones.

My favorite part is the chapter that opens the book, a new one called “School Lunch.” It consists of all the recipes I’ve collected that originated in Hawaii’s school cafeterias.

Someday someone is going to publish a cookbook entirely of recipes from Hawaii’s public schools. That person will be a hero. You think I exaggerate, but you have not been reading my mail. If only I had a database of all the requests I’ve received, it would clearly show that requests for cafeteria dishes outpace all others.

Why? I can only guess.

Perhaps because the meals connect to youth and good times. Perhaps because the meals were a departure from what was served at home. Perhaps some of those cafeteria managers really knew what kids would like. Perhaps we were just really hungry back then.

Tracking down those older recipes can be difficult, as many favorite dishes are no longer in the Department of Education menu rotation and the recipes were under the purview of particular cafeteria managers who are long gone. I say this by way of warning: If you are planning to send me a request for an old cafeteria recipe, our chances of success are slim. Don’t get your hopes up.

Still, over the years I’ve gotten lucky a few times, yielding the collection that kicks off “By Request: Highlights.” Here’s a sampling from the book.

School-Kine Spanish Rice

Ah, Spanish rice. I remember you well. You followed me from elementary school in Hilo through high school in Hawaii Kai, a staple of cafeterias statewide. And I am not alone. Most of my fellow public-school alumni remember this dish, most with some degree of reverence.

Most published recipes for Spanish or Mexican rice call for raw rice to be baked in a soupy tomato-based mixture. The school version has you make a sauce on the stovetop, then mix in cooked rice and bake it for a short time, just to melt the cheesy topping.

If this doesn’t quite taste like the version you remember, it’s probably because your cafeteria manager tweaked the recipe just a bit.

Adapted from Hilo Union School

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup diced onion

1 pound lean ground beef

1 cup diced green bell pepper

1 cup diced celery

2 (14-ounce) cans stewed tomatoes, crushed, or 1 can stewed tomatoes and 1 can condensed tomato soup

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cups cooked rice (white, brown or a mix)

4 slices American cheese, cut in strips

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high. Add onion; saute until softened. Add beef; saute until nearly cooked through. Add bell pepper, celery, tomatoes, salt and pepper. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 5 to 10 minutes, until vegetables are tender.

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine sauce and rice in a casserole dish or baking pan. Top with cheese. Bake a few minutes, until cheese melts. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (using only stewed tomatoes): 330 calories, 12 g total fat, 4 g saturated fat, 55 mg cholesterol, 800 mg sodium, 34 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 9 g sugar, 21 g protein

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Kapalama School Peanut Butter Coffee Cake

We never had peanut butter coffee cake in any of the school cafeterias in any of the institutions of my public school career. I want my money back. This recipe, volunteered by Jade Tom, baker at Kapalama Elementary from 2000 to 2006, produces a delicious cake, like a peanut butter cookie in a soft cake form.

• 1/2 pound butter (2 sticks)
• 1-1/4 pounds sugar (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 1 pound 4 ounces peanut butter (about 2-1/2 cups)
• 3 large eggs
• 1 pound 2 ounces flour (about 3-1/2 cups)
• 1-1/4 tablespoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup powdered milk (see note)
• 2 cups water
• 1 cup raisins (optional)
• >> Topping:
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup flour
• 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a 13-by-9-inch pan.

Cream butter with sugar, then beat in peanut butter and eggs.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in powdered milk. Add to peanut butter mixture, alternating with water. Batter will be thick but should not be chunky (if so, add more water). Fold in raisins, if using. Spread in pan.

To make topping: Cut sugar and flour into butter until crumbly. Sprinkle with cinnamon and mix. Spread over top of cake; press down lightly. Bake 60 to 90 minutes, until a pick inserted in center comes out clean.

Note: Rather than buy a box of powdered milk to get just 1/2 cup, I used 2 cups of milk in place of the water.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Write By Request, Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or email requests to bshimabukuro@staradvertiser.com.