TOKYO >> Anko (sweet bean paste), an indispensable ingredient in Japan’s wagashi (traditional) sweets, has been in the spotlight recently for its use in new kinds of treats. Dubbed shinkakei (modern anko sweets), these beautiful creations feature innovative tastes and textures, and are attracting attention on social media.

In April there was a long line at Takeno to Ohagi, a store in Setagaya ward, Tokyo, that specializes in ohagi (mochi rice coated with anko) before it even opened. The store is known for its distinctive ohagi made with unusual ingredients such as dried fruits, herbs and spices.

One such ohagi, Nanohana to Mitsubachi (nanohana field mustard and honeybees), includes shiroan (smooth white anko), yuzu peel, honey and matcha. Colored green and yellow, it evokes the feeling of spring.

Moka to Ichijiku (mocha and figs) ohagi delivers an aroma of coffee with just one bite, while another new treat featuring dried passion fruit and anko mixed with salted cherry blossom petals creates a harmony of refreshing flavors.

The lineup of unconventional ohagi was created by proprietor Hiroki Ogawa, who once worked at a Spanish bar and ran a Western-style deli.

“White kidney beans, an ingredient of shiroan, are often used for European side dishes, so I use them with herbs and spices” to make ohagi, Ogawa said. “Ohagi containing nuts go well with wine.”

Ebisu Seikado, a Japanese confectionery in Shibuya ward, Tokyo, features domestic fruit and is known for its signature dorayaki (honey pancake sandwiches) with fruit fillings.

In April the store offered dorayaki filled with strawberries from Ibaraki prefecture and tsubuan (coarse red anko), as well as dorayaki with mangoes from Miyazaki prefecture and shiroan, among other items.

Department stores and other businesses across Japan are also getting in on the anko boom, holding events featuring anko. According to wagashi critic Naruhiro Nishii, colorful, Instagram-ready treats have hit shelves one after another over the past several years, drawing the interest of young people.

Long-established wagashi stores are also innovating. Ryoguchiya Korekiyo, an Aichi prefecture wagashi store established in 1634, sells limited editions of beautifully colored yokan (jellied) anko bars featuring carnation motifs or depictions of countries around the world.

Ginza Fugetsudo in Tokyo, another established wagashi shop, sells a yokan terrine containing nuts and fruits. The dessert pairs well with coffee or wine.

Anko is making headway in cake shops and cafes as well. Starbucks Coffee Japan launched An Butter Sando, a bun filled with anko and a slice of butter, in May 2021. In March, cake shop Ginza Cozy Corner released a limited- edition cream puff stuffed with anko and strawberries.