In this pantry-friendly recipe, golden, crackling-skinned potatoes move from side dish to main course after being tossed with tuna, capers and a pungent sauce of anchovies melted in brown butter.

It’s extremely adaptable. If you don’t have (or like) tuna, use chickpeas or white beans instead. Just don’t skimp on the onion, which adds a crisp sweetness to the potatoes.

For this dish, I like fingerling potatoes best. They have slightly thicker skins that stand up to roasting better than, say, thin-skinned Yukon golds. But use whatever you’ve got. Even sweet potatoes would be excellent, giving a honeyed contrast next to all that anchovy and garlic pungency.

ROASTED POTATOES WITH ANCHOVIES AND TUNA

• 1-1/2 pounds baby or fingerling potatoes
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Extra-virgin olive oil, for roasting
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (3/4 stick)
• 1 (2-ounce) tin anchovies, chopped (10 to 12 anchovies)
• 1 tablespoon capers, drained
• 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
• 1 (5- to 6-ounce) can or jar tuna, drained and flaked
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• 1 cup chopped soft herbs, including parsley, celery leaves and dill (optional)
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion, shallot or scallion

In a medium pot, cover potatoes with water; add a generous amount of salt. Bring to a simmer, then cook until potatoes are very soft, 25 to 30 minutes. You want to overcook them a little, so the insides stay creamy when they’re roasted later. Drain and let cool until you can handle them.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Smash potatoes to about 3/4-inch thick and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with oil and a little salt. (The more oil, the crispier the potatoes will get.) Arrange potatoes in a single layer. Roast until dark golden and crisp, 40 to 50 minutes, flipping over halfway through.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a small pot over medium heat. Stir in anchovies and capers; continue to cook until butter is brown and nutty. Stir in garlic. Add tuna; toss well.

Spoon over potatoes. Season with more salt, if needed, pepper and lemon juice. Scatter herbs and onions over top. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.