Sometimes it’s hard for people from other places to wrap their heads around the prominence of food in Hawaii culture. The mile-long food table at the first-birthday luau, fancy (and pricey) buffet fare at wedding receptions, humongous aluminum trays of noodles and chicken and teriyaki beef and mac salad and rice at team potlucks — these are mind-boggling to someone who didn’t grow up taking home three heaping paper plates of leftovers after every family party.

If this is you, stick with this story, and the mystery will be revealed. If, on the other hand, you drive across the island just to pick up fresh tofu to make your aunty’s favorite tofu salad — and give her enough to feed 10 aunties — this tale will have you grinning.

Travis Nekota, Dirk Yoshizawa and Derek Hiyane definitely belong to the latter group. The trio forms the nucleus of a team of University of Hawaii football tailgaters who have dined and socialized together for more than 20 years.

Of course, in that time circumstances have changed. The friends have gone from young college students lean in both physique and pocketbook to plumped-up middle-aged men raising families.

They started out getting together for UH basketball, and that evolved into weekend potlucks at Yoshizawa’s home.

"We used to cook out — we call it ‘hibachi’ — at Dirk’s house every Saturday for about three or four years straight," says Nekota, sales manager for Pacific Transfer, a moving and trucking company. "There were originally about 10 of us, all Mililani High School grads, then it grew to folks from other places."

"It was a way to get together without getting into trouble," Yoshizawa, a commercial loan officer, says with a laugh.

"We like to hibachi," says Nekota. "Any opportunity we got to do it, we took it."

Back then, "we were broke," he recalls, so the friends grilled hot dogs, Portuguese sausage and round steak — "cheap cuts of meat" — for their weekly dinner.

Today, while the buddies still love to hibachi as much as ever and can spring for more than just hot dogs, they contend with a new challenge: lack of time.

"Over the years, we acquired full-time jobs and families," says Nekota.

UH football season gives them an annual reason to continue the tradition of food and camaraderie.

For these guys, a good time includes serious food. Come to their neck of the Aloha Stadium parking lot on any given game day and you’ll see some variation of this spread: pulehu ribs, bacon-wrapped scallops, rack of lamb, peanut butter miso chicken, pork chops, salmon, manapua and lumpia.

"I guess our tastes have gotten refined," says Nekota. "And I think because none of us get out as much, when given the opportunity we go a little bit overboard."

Nekota brings his grill to all home games and says everyone contributes what they like to eat. For him, that usually means a rack of lamb.

"Sure, it costs more to do than steak, but we look forward to football."

Yoshizawa regularly makes bacon-wrapped scallops with basil.

"Derek used to bring that, but I got tired of peeling the shrimp so I use scallops," he quips. "Someone told me to add ponzu sauce, so now I bring a bottle of that, too."

In tailgatings past, the friends have done seafood boils, and at the Hawaii Bowl, a Christmastime day game, they make fried rice to serve for breakfast.

When UH plays on the road, the group often gathers at Hiyane’s home to watch the game on television.

Hiyane is director of operations for the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation 2011 Hawaii host committee. The summit will gather leaders from 21 countries to discuss trade and investment. President Barack Obama, who will attend, picked Hawaii to host the November event. World leaders and thousands of diplomats, business officials and media will attend.

Putting together the summit requires someone with stellar organizational skills, making Hiyane the perfect fit. He enjoys organizing events and has taken on friends’ weddings and large parties. Hosting his tailgating buddies is something that comes from the heart.

"I organize the whole thing, and for me, it’s a way of being with my friends and knowing they’re enjoying themselves," he says.

"I’m not a big food person, but I like it when other people enjoy my food. I probably cook more at tailgates than at home."

Yoshizawa agrees wholeheartedly.

"It’s good fun watching everyone eat all your food," he says.

With friendship, food and football all mixed together, there’s always a reason to get together, he says.

"It’s partly the football, but during the (coach Fred) von Appen years, when they were losing a whole bunch of games, we still went for the food."

"Food takes second fiddle to getting together. It’s more the opportunity to see each other again," says Nekota. "Throughout the year, I hardly see these guys, but we get to see everyone (for football). It’s like our holiday season."

Recipes for game day

Travis Nekota, Dirk Yoshizawa and Derek Hiyane offer these recipes that form the nucleus of their tailgating menu:

GRILLED RACK OF LAMB

Courtesy Travis Nekota

2 racks lamb
2 tablespoons chopped rosemary
2 tablespoons chopped thyme
4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
6 tablespoons chopped garlic
1/4 cup dijon mustard
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper

Finely chop herbs and garlic, combine with mustard, vinegar and oil.

Place lamb in zip-top bag and marinate 12 to 24 hours.

Season lamb with salt and pepper and grill to desired doneness. Allow meat to rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving. Serves 8.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 580 calories, 34 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 200 mg cholesterol, 975 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrate, no fiber, no sugar, 61 g protein

HIBACHI MISO CHICKEN WITH PEANUT BUTTER

"Aloha Cuisine" by Sam Choy

5 pounds boneless chicken thighs
» Marinade:
1/2 cup miso
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup beer
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced

Combine marinade ingredients and marinate chicken overnight in refrigerator.

Grill over charcoal. Serves 12.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 360 calories, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 155 mg cholesterol, greater than 1300 mg sodium, 15 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 10 g sugar, 43 g protein

BACON-WRAPPED SCALLOPS WITH BASIL

Courtesy Dirk Yoshizawa

Toothpicks
1 pound jumbo scallops
1 package bacon
1 package fresh basil
Ponzu sauce (citrus flavored soy sauce)
Pepper, to taste

Soak toothpicks in water to prevent burning while cooking. (You will need 2 toothpicks per scallop.)

Cut scallops and bacon in half.

Wrap bacon around piece of scallop and basil leaf, using two toothpicks to hold bacon and basil in place. Season with pepper.

Place wrapped scallops on medium fire and grill until bacon is cooked.

Use ponzu for dipping sauce. Makes about 20 bite-size pieces.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including ponzu sauce): 90 calories, 7 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 20 mg cholesterol, 220 mg sodium, 1 g carbohydrate, no fiber, no sugar, 7 g protein

PULEHU RIBS

Courtesy Derek Hiyane

6 pieces beef ribs, about 1/2-inch thick
» Marinade:
1 tablespoon garlic
1 teaspoon chili pepper water
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup white wine
1/4 cup vegetable oil

Combine marinade ingredients and marinate ribs for 4 to 6 hours.

Grill over charcoal. Serves 4 to 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (assumes 3 pounds of beef, not including weight of ribs, and based on 4 servings): 600 calories, 143 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 145 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 1 g carbohydrate, no fiber, no sugar, 493 g protein

Nutritional analyses by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.