Honolulu Star-Advertiser

Thursday, April 25, 2024 80° Today's Paper


80-year-old Tokyo fish market holds final New Year auction

1/2
Swipe or click to see more

ASSOCIATED PRESS

Kiyoshi Kimura, second from left, president of Kiyomura Co., poses a bluefin tuna at his Sushi Zanmai restaurant near Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo today.

2/2
Swipe or click to see more

ASSOCIATED PRESS

A prospective buyer inspects the quality of frozen tuna before the first auction of the year at Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo today. Its among the biggest of Japan’s many New Year holiday rituals.

TOKYO »

It’s among the biggest of Japan’s many New Year holiday rituals: Early on Tuesday, a huge, glistening tuna was auctioned for about 14 million Japanese yen ($118,000) at Tokyo’s 80-year-old Tsukiji market. Next year, if all goes as planned, the tradition won’t be quite the same.

The world’s biggest and most famous fish and seafood market is due to move in November to a massive complex further south in Tokyo Bay, making way for redevelopment of the prime slice of downtown real estate.

The closure of the Tsukiji market will punctuate the end of the post-war era for many of the mom-and-pop shops just outside the main market that peddle a cornucopia of sea-related products, from dried squid and seaweed to whale bacon and caviar.

The auction is typical of Japan’s penchant for fresh starts at the beginning of the year — the first visit of the year to a shrine and the first dream of the year are other important firsts — and it’s meant to set an auspicious precedent for the 12 months to come.

Sushi restaurateur Kiyoshi Kimura has prevailed in most of the recent new year auctions, and he did so again this year in the bidding for a 200-kilogram (440-pound) tuna.

In 2013, a bidding war drove his record winning bid to 154.4 million yen (at today’s exchange rates about $1.3 million) for a 222-kilogram (490-pound) fish.

That drew complaints that prices had soared way out of line, and the winning price in 2014 was dramatically lower. Last year, a 180.4-kilogramme (380-pound) tuna caught off Japan’s northern region of Aomori fetched a winning bid of 4.51 million yen ($37,480).

Japanese eat about 80 percent of all bluefin tuna caught worldwide, and stocks of all three bluefin species — the Pacific, Southern and Atlantic — have fallen over the past 15 years amid overfishing.

But while the new year and daily tuna auctions are Tsukiji’s best-known events, the market is about much more than just tuna.

On a recent year-end day, shop owners in rubber boots and aprons were rushing to clean up and sell off the last of their inventory, as the last few hundred shoppers milled around hunting for bargains.

Already, some shops outside the market have been razed and a new building that will house a smaller “outer market” is under construction. Conceptual drawings from the Tokyo city government show the 23-hectare (nearly 57-acre) market site that fronts the Sumida River’s outlet into Tokyo Bay being transformed into an open waterfront park surrounded by greenery, with a wide shopping plaza and a passenger terminal for tourist ferries traversing the bay and river.

“We are contributing with all our efforts to the revitalization of our historic Tsukiji,” said a banner emblazoned with the logos of the architect and other contractors hanging from scaffolding of the new building.

Tsukiji’s predawn auctions are a fixture on the tourist circuit, and since it was not set up to accommodate large crowds the management has gradually limited access for safety’s sake.

Planning for the move began nearly 20 years ago. But the shift was delayed for years due to toxins found in the soil at the new location, the former site of a coal gasification plant run by Tokyo Gas.

The city announced in 2001 that the market would be moved by 2012. But cleanup work dragged on, and in 2013, Tokyo Gas disclosed it had found more toxins at the site.

Critics of the move said city authorities were swapping worries over cramped and some say unhygienic conditions in Tsukiji for a new set of health problems: unsafe levels of lead, arsenic, hexavalent chromium and other toxins.

Cleanup of the tainted site required the removal and replacement of 2 meters (6 feet) of topsoil, construction of retaining walls, pumping out of polluted ground water and an injection of fresh water.

17 responses to “80-year-old Tokyo fish market holds final New Year auction”

  1. pj737 says:

    Nothing better than a fish market sitting on an old coal gasification site. What was the Japanese govt thinking?

  2. kuewa says:

    How about a story about a local business instead? Suisan Fish Market in Hilo is 108 years old. O`ahu Market traces its root back 111 years.

  3. WizardOfMoa says:

    Giving credit to the Japanese’s ingenuity of getting rid and renovating a toxin site for an open waterfront park and shop!
    An improvement beneficial for everyone!

    • oxtail01 says:

      You also need to criticize the Japanese for decimating the world’s fish population. Is it really true that they consume 80% of the tuna catch? Was on vacation to Japan recently and part of the tour was to a former rich guy’s palace, who made his fortune destroying the herring population in Japan. The problem is that, in addition to overfishing, they destroy sustainability by eating every raw fish eggs they can get their chopsticks on. I love sushi and sashimi like most locals but don’t think I or rest of the world’s population consume even 10th of fish and eggs that Japanese do. Besides, it’s not Japanese ingenuity at work here, rather it’s necessity given their lack of available land. Heck they’ve been filling and building artificial land off shorelines for decades.

  4. choyd says:

    Oh man, this is an end to an era.

    • mikethenovice says:

      Millennial could care less about perpetuating the local culture.

      • butinski says:

        You can always depend on Mikethenovice, aka “cheap charley”, to contribute his foolish one liners about things he knows nothing about.

        • Morimoto says:

          He’s a retired, bored old man with nothing else to do except post on the internet praying to get a response so that he can feel relevant in this world. Give him a break. He’s a pea brain but he’s harmless.

        • choyd says:

          Perhaps. But this is just one in a long string of culturally historic places the Japanese government and development industry has bulldozed over in the past decade for new development. Sad really.

        • Jiujitsu_Fighter says:

          Leave the old man alone. He’s probably living a lonely existence.

        • mikethenovice says:

          Just enough to make, butinski, to reply.

        • mikethenovice says:

          Morimoto. I rather be retired and bored than bossed around like a slave at work. Only my puppies can tell what to do now.

        • mikethenovice says:

          …Fighter. I am never alone with this website at hand.

      • choyd says:

        And by Millennial you mean the Japanese development industry and government?

Leave a Reply