Green onions spring from the ground — somewhere — year-round. They offer a taste of fresh, of heat, of green.

We slice them long into nested troughs. We cut them crosswise into pale crescents. We inhale and squint; it’s not the weepy drama of the mature onion, but the sharp sting of youth.

We pile the curls into a big green mound in this dish. Here scallions are no garnish, no sprinkle, no condiment. Here onion stars. Tossed with a spicy heap of ginger, a shot of vinegar and a shake of salt, the sauce flashes fresh and hot on the palate.

Spooned over noodles it’s a bowlful of bright.

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Adapted from “Momofuku,” by David Chang and Peter Meehan (Clarkson Potter, 2010)

• 6 ounces ramen noodles (or lo mein, rice noodles or Shanghai thick noodles)
• 6 tablespoons ginger scallion sauce (recipe follows)
• 1/4 cup of any/all/none of the following: sliced bamboo shoots, quick-pickled cucumbers, roasted cauli­flower or other vegetables you have on hand

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in noodles. Cook until tender; drain.

Heap drained noodles in a bowl. Spoon on ginger scallion sauce. Add vegetables, if you like.

Ginger-scallion sauce: Toss together 2-1/2 cups thinly sliced scallions (white and green from 2 bunches), 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh ginger, 1/4 cup grapeseed or other neutral oil, 1-1/2 teaspoons light soy sauce, 3/4 teaspoon sherry vinegar and 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Let rest 15 minutes. Toss again. Makes 1-1/2 cups. Keeps nicely in the fridge, ready for noodle duty. Serves 2-4.

Nutritional information unavailable.