Of all the things to make in an electric pressure cooker, pasta seems low on the list. Neither dense nor tough, it doesn’t require the kind of cartilage-melting tenderization you get under pressure. And since pasta cooks so quickly in a regular pot, you’re not going to save any time.

But nothing beats an electric pressure cooker in terms of convenience, especially when it comes to spaghetti and meatballs.

Before I got my cooker, spaghetti and meatballs was on the menu maybe once a year, much to the dismay of my pasta- loving tween. It’s not a hard dish to make, but it dirtied too many pans for the average weeknight meal, yet wasn’t special enough to gain weekend-project status.

The electric pressure cooker streamlines the process, reducing the number of pans from three to one.

It also eliminates the grease-splattering labor of standing by the stove frying meatballs. In this recipe, which is adapted from my cookbook, “Comfort in an Instant,” I don’t bother frying them at all, cooking the meatballs directly in the sauce instead.

What you lose in browned, caramelized notes, you make up for in texture; these meatballs come out tender and still imbued with the character of the marinara. Then, just to make sure no one misses the fried flavors, I dollop milky ricotta over the top for serving.

If you’re the kind of person who makes big pots of marinara and freezes it, or if you swear by a store-bought sauce, you can use 3-1/4 cups of it here. You’ll save 10 minutes that way, which is meaningful on any given Monday.

This recipe is easy to dress up. Salt seekers can add some sliced olives or capers to the simmering sauce; anchovy fans might want to saute a couple of fillets along with the garlic; those who adore melted cheese can grate in some mozzarella after the pressure is released. And bits of pancetta browned right at the beginning will never make a bacon lover sad.

Homey, adaptable and weeknight- simple, this isn’t a spaghetti and meatballs that’s going to stop conversation when you bring it to the table. But it is sure to elicit some grateful smiles.

PRESSURE COOKER SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALLS

By Melissa Clark

• 1 pound ground beef (or substitute veal, pork or turkey)
• 1/4 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
• 3/8 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided, plus more for topping
• 2 tablespoons chopped basil
• 1 large egg
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
• 8 ounces dry spaghetti (not thin), broken in half
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup ricotta (optional)
• >>Sauce:
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
• 1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 basil sprigs, plus more thinly sliced for serving

>> To make sauce: Set pressure cooker to saute function; heat oil in pot. Stir in garlic, red pepper and black pepper; cook 1 minute, or until fragrant. Stir in tomatoes, salt and basil sprigs; cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes (lower the saute function to low or briefly turn machine off if sauce splatters too much).

Meanwhile, make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine beef, panko, 1/4 cup Parmesan, basil, egg, salt and garlic. Roll into 1-1/4-inch balls.

Scatter uncooked spaghetti over sauce in pressure cooker. Drizzle with oil, stirring gently (try to keep the spaghetti on top of sauce). Top with meatballs and pour in 1 cup water.

Cover; cook on high pressure 5 minutes. Manually release pressure. Remove cover and stir to separate spa­ghetti. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan.

At this point, the pasta will be almost but not quite cooked through. Loosely replace top of pressure cooker and let it sit 3 to 10 minutes, until sauce has thickened and spaghetti is al dente but not mushy. Serve topped with ricotta, if using, and sprinkled with thinly sliced basil and more Parmesan, if you like. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.

© 2019 The New York Times Company