Cookies have always had a monopoly on holiday desserts, which is great if you’re into cookies. But in my opinion, tiny, delicate, ornamental desserts are a touch anticlimactic at the end of a meal.

For cocktail parties and giftable tins, of course, roll and bake to your heart’s content. But after a giant ham, I’m looking for something that shouts “celebratory abundance!” Something that encourages a mix of intimacy and bacchanalian behavior. Something tall and dramatic to be sliced and shared and eaten without forks or plates, a giant bowl of something rich and creamy eaten with several spoons at once. (We’re all friends here, right?)

This dessert captures that vibe without trying too hard. Equal parts festive and fuss-free, it will leave you with plenty of time to focus on that ham. If you have the time and the ingredients on hand, you could pull this off for Christmas dinner, otherwise, consider it a suggestion for a New Year’s party.

If there is something more fun than eating a comically large bowl of chocolate pudding layered with whipped cream and crushed cookies with a very small spoon, I don’t want to know about it.

While you can absolutely make and serve chocolate pudding in individual cups, sharing one giant vessel is delightfully communal, and to me that’s part of what makes it holiday-spectacle worthy. The vessel can be nearly anything you want, but I will say this pudding is best when whatever you choose is tall and deep so you can build as many layers as possible.

SALTED CHOCOLATE PUDDING WITH WHIPPED SOUR CREAM

By Alison Roman

• 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (65% to 70%), finely chopped
• 3 cups (720 milliliters) heavy cream
• 3 cups (720 milliliters) whole milk
• 1/3 cup (30 grams) cocoa powder
• 1-1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar, divided
• 6 large egg yolks
• 1/3 cup (45 grams) cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
• >> For assembly:
• 3 cups (720 milliliters) heavy cream
• 3/4 cup (90 grams) powdered sugar
• 3 cups (720 milliliters) sour cream
• 12 ounces (340 grams) thin wafer cookies, such as gingerbread, vanilla or chocolate, crumbled
• Flaky sea salt, to taste

Place chocolate in a large bowl; set aside.

Heat cream, milk, cocoa powder and half the sugar in a medium pot over medium-high, whisking constantly until mixture comes to a bare simmer, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, egg yolks, cornstarch, salt and vanilla, if using, until mixture is lump-free and pale. Ladle in a bit of hot cream mixture and whisk until completely blended, adding a bit more at a time until half the cream mixture is added.

Transfer entire yolk-cream mixture back into pot with remaining cream mixture. Return pot to medium heat and, whisking constantly, cook until thick and custardy, with occasional bubble, 3 to 5 minutes.

Immediately pour mixture over chocolate; let sit a minute or two, giving bowl a shake to help chocolate settle as it melts. Wisk chocolate into cream as it melts, until you have an ultrasmooth, silky pudding. Transfer to a flat baking dish (an 8-by-8-inch pan works well) and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until pudding is set, at least 3 hours; up to 48 hours.

To assemble: Whisk or beat heavy cream and powdered sugar until light and fluffy. (The cream should hold a gentle peak.) Whisk in sour cream.

Spoon a bit of chocolate pudding into a serving vessel — individual bowls, glasses or cups, or a large bowl — the choice is yours. Top with an equal amount of whipped sour cream, and scatter with crumbled cookies. Repeat until vessel is full, topping with flaky salt.

Eat immediately, so cookies stay crunchy, or store in the refrigerator up to 3 days. Serves 8 to 10.

Nutritional information unavailable.