I love and seek out recipes that are animated by a great idea: a clever technique, a sharp shortcut that defies conventional wisdom, a magic combination of flavors or textures, or an ingredient moonlighting in a new context.

I made this recipe for a midweek dinner and was delighted by how smart and simple it is: a vegan take on adobo that comes together within 45 minutes, but keeps the delicious flavors of the Filipino classic normally made with chicken or other meat.

We had it with rice, and next time I’ll fry an egg to serve on top, too (which, of course, makes the dish not vegan).

CAULIFLOWER ADOBO

Ali Slagle, New York Times

• 1 large cauliflower (2-1/2 to 3 pounds)
• Kosher salt, to taste
• 3 tablespoons canola oil, plus more as needed
• 1/4 cup water
• 2 teaspoons black pepper, plus more as needed
• 1/2 cup rice-wine vinegar
• 5 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons raw or light brown sugar
• 6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 Thai chile, halved lengthwise, or 1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• 3 scallions, thinly sliced, for serving

Trim leaves and woody stalk from cauliflower, then cut through the root to make 8 wedges. Season both sides of each wedge with salt. Reserve any loose cauliflower pieces.

In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high. Place a layer of cauliflower wedges in the skillet cut-side down and cook without moving them until well browned on one side, 3 to 4 minutes.

Transfer to a plate and continue until all the cauliflower is seared, adding more oil as needed.

Return all the cauliflower to the pan with uncooked side facing down.

Add water, any loose cauliflower pieces, black pepper, rice-wine vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, garlic, bay leaves and Thai chile. Cover and let simmer over medium heat until the cauliflower is crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.

Uncover, turn heat to medium-high, and cook, basting cauliflower occasionally with sauce, until cauliflower is tender and sauce has thickened and reduced to about 3/4 cup, 8 to 10 minutes.

Serve cauliflower with plenty of sauce and a sprinkle of scallions. Serves 4.

Nutritional information unavailable.

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