A firm, white-fleshed fish like halibut, bass or grouper makes a neutral backdrop for a zesty, savory topping of stir-fried mushroom. Any type of mushroom will work, but shiitake are especially nice. Serve with steamed rice.

Baked fish with mushrooms and ginger

Ingredients:

• 4 firm, white-fleshed fish fillets, such as halibut, bass or grouper (about 1 1/2 pounds)

• Salt and black pepper

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed

• 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps cut in thin slices

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 1 teaspoon grated ginger

• Thinly slivered scallions, for garnish

• A few cilantro sprigs, for garnish

Directions:

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Lay the fillets in a baking dish just large enough to hold them. Season on both sides with salt and pepper.

Set a large skillet over medium-high heat and add oil. When oil looks wavy, add mushrooms and sauté until they take on a little color, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat. Add the soy sauce and ginger to the mushrooms, and stir well. Spoon mushrooms evenly over fish fillets.

Bake, uncovered, until the fillets flake easily when probed with a fork, about 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer fish to individual dishes or a serving platter. Sprinkle with scallions and cilantro sprigs. Be sure to spoon any gingery pan juices over each serving.

Total time: 30 minutes, serves 4.