Cauliflower cheese is classic British comfort food. In its simplest form, the vegetable is cloaked with white sauce (béchamel) and cheddar, then baked until bubbly. It may be served as a side dish but is often the main course for a frugal lunch or supper.

Cauliflower Cheese

Ingredients:
• Salt and black pepper
• 2 (1 1/2-pound) heads cauliflower
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for buttering the pan
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk or half-and-half
• Small pinch of grated nutmeg
• Small pinch of ground cayenne
• 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar (3 ounces)
• 1 cup grated provolone or Asiago cheese (3 ounces)
• 1 cup crumbled feta (4 ounces)
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin, caraway or fennel seed
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Directions:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. With a paring knife, remove the tough core from the bottom of each cauliflower. Working one at a time, lower the cauliflower into boiling water and cook for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside to let cool.
(Alternatively, cut cauliflower into large florets, cook for 3 minutes and spread out to cool.)

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium-high. Add flour and let mixture cook for a minute without browning.
Whisk in milk 1/2 cup at a time, simmering between additions, until all milk is used. Whisk well, then simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg and a speck of cayenne. Keep warm.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and place blanched cauliflower side by side. Stir Cheddar into sauce and spoon sauce evenly over cauliflower. Sprinkle with grated provolone and feta. (Alternatively, if using florets, arrange in a single layer in the baking dish.) Sprinkle with cumin seeds, if using.

Bake uncovered for about 40 minutes, until bubbling and browned. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve directly from the baking dish.
Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes, serves 4-6.