Julia Turshen, author of the cookbook Small Victories (Chronicle Books, 2016), cracked the code on turkey meatballs: Ricotta adds milky creaminess and acts as a binder. Taking her lead, the first two steps of this recipe produce all-purpose turkey meatballs that are light in texture and rich in flavor, and the final step of basting the meatballs with an herb-and-garlic-infused butter turns them into a weekday luxury. Eat with mashed or roasted potatoes or other root vegetables, polenta, whole grains, or a mustardy salad. (For oven instructions, see tip.)

Turkey-Ricotta Meatballs

Ingredients for the meatballs:

• 1 pound ground turkey

• 1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta

• 1/3 cup finely grated Parmesan

• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes or black pepper

• 1 garlic clove, finely grated

• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

• 1 1/2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or grapeseed), plus more for your hands

Ingredients for the herb-butter sauce:

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced

• 2 sage sprigs, 1 rosemary sprig or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

• 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Directions:

In a medium bowl, mix together the turkey, ricotta, Parmesan, red pepper flakes, garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Using oiled hands, roll into 12 meatballs, a heaping 2 tablespoons each.

In a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat the oil over medium. Add the meatballs and cook until browned on two sides, 4 to 6 minutes per side, lowering the heat as necessary if the meatballs are getting too dark.

Add the butter, sage and garlic. As the butter melts, tilt the skillet and baste the meatballs by spooning the butter over them. Flip the meatballs every so often and continue to baste until the butter is browned and nutty and the meatballs are cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Eat the meatballs with the butter spooned over top.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4.

Tip:

You can also broil the meatballs in a greased, oven-safe skillet for 8 to 12 minutes, or roast at 425 degrees for 7 to 10 minutes, until browned on one side and nearly cooked through. Continue with step 3 on the stovetop.