To make grilled cauliflower with a tender interior and a flavorful, nicely browned exterior, we first microwaved it until it was cooked through and then briefly grilled it to pick up color and flavor.

To ensure that the cauliflower didn’t fall apart on the grill and to provide sufficient surface area for browning, we cut the head into wedges.

Dunking the cauliflower in a salt and sugar solution before microwaving seasoned it all over, even in the nooks and crannies. Look for cauliflower with densely packed florets that feels heavy for its size.

This dish stands well on its own, but to dress it up, serve it sprinkled with our relish of almonds, raisins and capers.

GRILLED CAULIFLOWER

By America’s Test Kitchen

• 2 cups water
• 1/4 cup salt
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 (2-pound) head cauliflower cut in 6 wedges (don’t cut off core)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
• 1 tablespoon topping (recipe follows)
• Lemon wedges, for serving

Whisk water, salt and sugar in medium bowl until salt and sugar dissolve. Gently dunk cauliflower wedges in mixture, then transfer, rounded side down, to large plate and cover with inverted large bowl.

Microwave until paring knife slips easily in and out of thickest stem of florets (not core), 14 to 16 minutes.

Transfer cauliflower to paper towel- lined plate and pat dry with paper towels. Brush cut sides with half the oil.

>> For charcoal grill: Bottom vent should be completely open and top coals should be partially covered with ash and spread evenly over grill. Cover with grate and heat until hot, about 5 minutes.

>> For gas grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn burners to medium-high.

Clean and oil grate. Place cauliflower, cut side down, on grill and cook, covered, until well browned with spots of charring, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip cauliflower and cook second cut side until equally browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip again so cauliflower is sitting on rounded edge and cook until browned, 1 to 2 minutes.

Transfer to platter; drizzle with remaining oil, sprinkle with chives and topping. Serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4-6.

ALMOND, RAISIN AND CAPER RELISH

By America’s Test Kitchen

• 2 tablespoons golden raisins
• 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted and chopped fine
• 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped fine
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley
• Pinch red pepper flakes
• 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Soak raisins in hot water 5 minutes. Drain raisins and chop fine. Toss with vinegar, almonds, capers, parsley and pepper flakes. Stir in 3 tablespoons oil; mixture should be moist. Add remaining tablespoon oil if needed. Season with salt and pepper. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 233 calories, 16 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 1,021 mg sodium, 18 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 10 g sugar, 6 g protein.