A salad is a fine way to begin a meal, no matter the time of year. Sturdy chicories are the salad greens of choice right now — not at all like tender lettuces, but wonderfully fresh tasting.

For this menu, curly endive, also known as frisée, fits the bill nicely, alone or in combination with its colorful cousins, Belgian endive, Chioggia, Treviso or speckled Castelfranco radicchio.

All chicories have a slight, pleasant bitterness that stands up nicely to an assertive dressing — in this case, a mustardy vinaigrette. Chopped egg and Gruyère add interest (and a little protein). In fact, a large portion of this salad is great on its own, served as a light meal.

Curly Endive Salad with Mustard Dressing, Egg and Gruyère:

Ingredients:

• 4 large eggs, at room temperature

• Ice water

• 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• 1 small garlic clove, grated or mashed to a paste

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt and black pepper

• 4 large handfuls tender, pale curly endive (from the center of 2 medium heads), washed and dried

• About 2 ounces Gruyère

Directions:

Bring a small pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add eggs (the water should cover them), and return to a boil. Adjust heat so that the water is at a brisk simmer. For a runny yolk, cook for 7 minutes; for a gooey center, cook for 8 minutes; for a slightly moist center, cook for 9 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath.

Immediately drain eggs and plunge into ice water to cool. When cool, crack and peel eggs. (Eggs can be cooked and peeled up to several hours in advance, and refrigerated.) Roughly chop eggs into haphazard slices.

Put vinegar, mustard and garlic in a small bowl. Whisk with a fork to dissolve. Slowly whisk in olive oil to make a slightly thick dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put endive in a low, wide salad bowl and sprinkle very lightly with salt. Add dressing to taste and toss well. Transfer greens to individual plates. Top with chopped egg. With a vegetable peeler, shave thin slices of Gruyère over each salad.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4.