Salmon is the perfect fish for grilling: It’s rich-flavored and intrinsically fatty, which keeps it from drying out when exposed to the high, dry heat of the fire. So why do so many cooks leave half the fish stuck to the grate when grilling it? Nerves are part of it: The moment you put the fish on the grill, you may feel compelled to move it, thereby proving to yourself it hasn’t stuck. When fish first hits the grill, it will stick; that’s the nature of piscine protein. The secret is to let it grill for a few minutes without touching it, after which the proteins will release from the hot metal. These two other techniques guarantee stick-free fish: First, select fish steaks, which are less prone to falling apart than fillets. Second, slather the fish with mayonnaise-mustard sauce before grilling. The mayonnaise acts as a lubricant to keep the fish from sticking.

Grilled Salmon

Ingredients:

• 4 center-cut salmon steaks, each 3/4to 1-inch thick

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3/4 cup mayonnaise

• 1/2 cup grainy mustard or Dijon-style mustard

• Neutral oil, for greasing the grill grate

Directions:

Season the salmon steaks on both sides with salt and pepper.

Combine the mayonnaise and mustard in a small bowl and whisk to mix. Using a spoon, spread some of the mixture on the fish on both sides (about 2 tablespoons per side).

Light your grill and heat to high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well: Fold a paper towel into a tight pad. Dip it in a small bowl of oil and, holding it at the end of your grill tongs, draw it over the bars of the grate.

Arrange the salmon steaks diagonally on the hot grill grates and lower the lid to cover. Grill the fish on one side, undisturbed, for 3 to 4 minutes. By the time the bottoms of the salmon steaks show grill marks, they will release easily from the hot grates; turn them over with a thin-bladed spatula.

Spoon the remaining mustard mayonnaise on top, in the center of each salmon steak. Close the grill lid and grill the second side until the grill marks are browned on top and the salmon feels semi-firm when pinched between your thumb and forefinger on the sides.

Transfer the salmon to a platter or plates and serve.

Total time: 35 minutes, serves 4.