In this speedy, rosy weeknight dinner, a tart ginger-rhubarb sauce lends brightness to rich, buttery roasted salmon fillets. It’s used in two ways here. First, it’s spooned over the fillets before roasting, allowing the bits of rhubarb to singe and caramelize in the oven’s high heat. Then, more sauce is served alongside for a fresher, zippier bite. To balance the rhubarb’s astringency, a few tablespoons of sugar are stirred into the sauce, but feel free to adjust the amount to taste. It should strike a balance between tangy and sweet. For the pinkest, prettiest sauce, seek out the reddest rhubarb stalks you can find.

RHUBARB ROASTED SALMON

Ingredients:

* 3 scallions, thinly sliced
* 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, more to taste
* 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, more for serving
* 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, more to taste
* Salt
* 6 ounces rhubarb, trimmed and sliced 1 inch thick (1 1/3 cups)
* 4 (6to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
* Red-pepper flakes, for serving (optional)

Directions:

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, if you like, for easier cleanup.

Set aside about 2 tablespoons of the scallion greens for serving. In a medium saucepan, combine remaining scallions, sugar, vinegar, ginger and a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until the sugar has dissolved.

Add the rhubarb. Cover pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is just tender, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and, using a spoon or fork, mash the mixture until it falls apart into a chunky purée. Taste and add more sugar, vinegar, ginger and salt if needed. It should taste balanced between sweet, tangy and salty.

Arrange salmon skin-side-down on the prepared baking sheet. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread half of the rhubarb mixture on top of the fillets (save remaining rhubarb for serving). Top fillets evenly with cubed butter. Roast for 8 to 13 minutes or until the salmon is just cooked through.

Garnish the fillets with the reserved scallions, red-pepper flakes (if using) and, if you like, a drizzle of rice wine vinegar. Serve with the remaining rhubarb sauce.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4.

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