In the Pacific Northwest, Native Americans smoked salmon on cedar, embodying the belief that what grows together goes together. On backyard grills, planks insulate the salmon from the flames, so the fish stays tender, and they prevent it from sticking to the grates. Purchase food-grade planks from a grocery or hardware store, then soak the planks in water so they don’t flare. Heat the plank on the grill until smoldering, then add the fish. The steam and smoke rising from the cedar gently cook the fish and infuse it with woodsy flavor. Salmon kissed by cedar is such a special combination that additional seasonings are not needed.

Cedar Plank Salmon
Ingredients:
• 4 (4- to 6-ounce) skin-on salmon fillets
• Salt and pepper

Directions:
Soak a food-grade cedar plank in water for at least 1 hour. To keep the plank from floating, top it with a bowl filled with water. When you’re ready to cook, heat the grill to high, which is between 450 and 550 degrees. You should be able to hold your hand 4 to 5 inches above the grates for 2 to 3 seconds. Season the salmon with salt and pepper.

Place the plank on the grill, close the grill and let the plank cure until the bottom side is charred, lightly smoking and maybe even making a popping sound, 5 to 10 minutes. If any part of the plank catches on fire, sprinkle it with a little water.

Reduce the heat to low, between 250 and 350 degrees. Flip the plank and arrange the salmon fillets skin side down on the plank, ideally at least 1 inch apart and 1 inch distant from the edges of the plank. (If you removed the plank from the grill to arrange the fish, leave the grill open so that the temperature drops more quickly.)

Close the grill and cook until cooked through, 10 to 16 minutes, depending on the size of the fillets. (The fish is done when the fish flakes easily or when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reaches 125 degrees for medium-rare.)

To serve, slide a spatula between the flesh and its skin at the thick end. The fish will easily peel away from the skin. If your fish has white albumin, no big deal — just scrape it away with the spatula before serving. Discard the plank and skin (or, if you have a charcoal grill, scrape off the skin and put the plank on top of your next fire to infuse it with cedar).

Total time: About 2 hours, serves 4.

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