Food as fashion has never made a lot of sense to me. Kale is out (no, not really), jackfruit is in, and so on.

But guess what? In Switzerland, the birthplace of fondue, this creamy cheese dish never went out of style, and once you make up a pot for your crew, you will realize why the Swiss never ever considered letting it go the way of the Jell-O mold.

Emmenthal cheese (or, in Switzerland, Emmental) and Gruyere are the two most classic cheeses used in authentic Swiss fondue.

Other traditional choices are Comte, Raclette and Swiss Vacherin, which melts beautifully.

If you want to add different cheeses, do; you need cheeses with flavor, and cheeses with a smooth, creamy melting texture — classically, cow’s milk cheeses made in the Alpine style. Fontina and Jarlsberg are good thoughts too, and very accessible. Talk to your cheese­monger to see what else is an option.

Rubbing the pot with a cut garlic clove in this version adds a subtle touch of garlic; some recipes call for actual minced garlic to be added to the pot.

As for the kirsch, if you discuss “real” fondue with someone from Switzerland you will get a firm opinion on whether it should be included.

Only a small amount of this cherry liqueur is used, so it doesn’t seem to be a deal breaker, at least to this fondue neophyte. Some people like to keep the kirsch out of the fondue, but dip the bread lightly into a small dish of it before dipping the bread into the cheese.

Other seasonings that might be added are dry mustard or nutmeg, but traditionalists would probably stab me with a fondue fork for suggesting such things.

The classic item to dip into cheese fondue is bread cubes, but there is no reason to stop there. Crackers, vegetables, even meats or fruit — anything that goes well with cheese is fair game.

Additional tips: Don’t overheat the cheese, and add it slowly. Melting cheese gradually at a low temperature helps keep it smooth, not clumpy or stringy.

If you don’t have a fondue pot, you can still make fondue and just serve it in the pot you cooked it in. Reheat it, stirring, as needed.

Or just eat fast!

Classic Swiss Fondue

• 1 clove garlic, halved
• 1-1/2 cups dry white wine
• 1 pound grated Gruyere cheese
• 1/2 pound grated Emmenthal (or Emmental) cheese
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 teaspoons kirsch cherry liqueur (optional)

>> To serve:

• Cubes of firm, day-old bread
• Lightly steamed asparagus, broccoli and cauliflower florets, or carrots
• Cherry tomatoes
• Strips of bell pepper
• Apple or pear slices

Rub the inside of a heavy pot, such as an enameled cast-iron pot, with cut garlic clove. Add wine, and heat over medium until hot.

Toss grated cheese in a bowl with cornstarch. Add that mixture to the pot very gradually, stirring all the while, until cheese is melted and mixture is smooth. Season with pepper.

Meanwhile, arrange bread and other dipping items on platter.

If you have a fondue pot, light the flame under it, and transfer the cheese mixture to the fondue pot. Let everyone spear the food of their choice with fondue forks or other small forks, and dip away. Serves 8 to 10.

Approximate nutritional analysis, per serving: 213 calories, 12 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 63 mg sodium, 3 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 1 g sugar, 12 g protein