The Brilliant Ox offers intriguing happy hour at Ala Moana

The Brilliant Ox is a gastropub that opened about six months ago at Ala Moana Center to much fanfare. Its focus has been on putting unusual, if not quite exotic, touches on familiar menu items, from burgers to ribs to fish and chips.

For happy hour, the restaurant’s approach is striking in that many of the items would not be found elsewhere — for happy hour or on regular menus. You’re in for something different and interesting at The Brilliant Ox.

THE EXPERIENCE

If you know where the Pearl Ultralounge used to be, then you’ll have no problem finding The Brilliant Ox, but otherwise it’s a bit out of the way, on the third floor Ho‘okipa Terrace.

Several other restaurants and bars are nearby, so it’s easy to get sidetracked if you’re approaching from the main mall, but keep walking past the fourth-floor Mai Tai Bar and look for some stairs on the mauka side. Step down and you’ll know it immediately by, of course, the life-size sculpture of an ox by the door. (Entry is also available directly from the mall’s mauka parking lot.)

Even with all the fancy redevelopment that Ala Moana has undergone in recent years, The Brilliant Ox stands out as a high-end place to dine. The decor is elegant and chic, with wood and brick throughout. There are two bars, one in the main dining area, and another U-shaped bar off to the side, where there are a few tables as well. One of the bars is surrounded by windows, so if you enjoy natural light, that’s the place to be, the rest of the place being rather cozy. Happy-hour offerings are available throughout.

Other than the ox sculpture, there are a few other design oddities: A rope partition separates the space, which is further divided into split levels, a carryover from the Ultralounge days; an antique red telephone booth, probably an import from the United Kingdom, stands near one wall. Perhaps the idea is that if you’re annoyed by someone using a cellphone, you can nod your head suggestively toward the booth and hope he or she takes the hint.

While The Brilliant Ox is one of the more upscale places at Ala Moana, don’t be concerned if you’re dressed down. The vibe is casual and comfortable, and my impression is that a number of happy-hour customers are employees of other Ala Moana stores.

THE FOOD

The happy-hour menu is small, with all items conveniently priced at $6. At that price it’s no surprise that most come in modest portions. The surprise is that all are unique.

The french fries, here called Fondue Fries, are served with melted, aged cheddar for dipping, with a sprinkling of furikake for added flavor. This was the most substantial item and very satisfying — real cheddar is so much better than the diluted, liquid cheese you run across frequently.

I was intrigued by the golden marinated beets, and was subsequently very pleased. Served with goat cheese mousse and umeboshi relish, the cold dish was a delicious combination of tastes and textures. The rich flavor and chewiness of the beets mixed marvelously with the slightly sour goat cheese, and some toasted macadamia nuts added crunch.

Similarly, the chicken liver mousse had a fulfilling flavor topped off by pickled pineapple and chives. With sesame lavosh — a crispy flatbread — this dish had a richness with tang that lingered nicely in the mouth. I would not recommend, however, ordering both this dish and the beets; the flavors are quite strong.

The restaurant also offers chicken teriyaki balls and Okinawan sweet potato croquettes, served with lup cheong jam, samba mayo and rosemary. Both were very tasty.

THE DRINK

Brilliant Ox offers an interesting selection of craft cocktails for happy hour, all priced at $8. These include the Tea Ceremony, a “vegan and gluten-free” option which among its many ingredients has vodka and vanilla almond milk, and the Pirate New Fashion, featuring Bacardi rums and chocolate bitters.

I had the Ume-Migos, a margarita with strawberry puree, Casamigos tequila, Mito No Kairakuen plum liqueur and ume. I found it refreshing, with the tartness of spring strawberries blending nicely with plum liqueur.

Beers on tap include Waikiki Brewing’s Brilliant Ox Brown and Ala Moana Amber for $5, the same price as a selection of liquors such as Jameson whiskey and Tito’s Handmade Vodka.

Wine is $2 off the regular menu price.

THE VERDICT

At The Brilliant Ox, the menu is intriguing, with offerings you won’t find elsewhere. But it’s not just a matter of having food that’s different. It’s delectable as well — fine food served in an attractive setting.