The marriage of radish and orange punches way above its weight as a salad. This version is based on one James Beard collected. Alice Waters, founder of Chez Panisse, has a recipe, too. So does Paula Wolfert, who dedicated her nine cookbooks to Mediterranean cuisine.

Their inspiration came from countless Moroccans who have this salad in regular rotation, often with orange flower water.

This recipe leaves it out, opting for a simpler but still refreshing salad that requires careful, precise preparation of the oranges and the radishes to make it shine. If you like, add a pinch of cinnamon to the dressing or sprinkle a bit on top.

Orange and Radish Salad

Recipe from Emily Nunn and James Beard Adapted by Kim Severson

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)

• 2 tablespoons sugar

• Flaky sea salt

• 4 large oranges (preferably a mix of Cara Cara and navel oranges), peeled, pith completely removed, citrus sliced into rounds, deseeded and chilled, plus fresh orange zest for garnish if desired

• 1 bunch red radishes, cut into thin matchsticks and chilled

Directions:

Combine lemon juice, sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a jar. Twist on the lid and shake until the sugar and salt dissolve; chill dressing thoroughly.

When ready to serve, simply arrange the orange rounds on a serving dish or individual plates, top with a pretty pile of radish matchsticks and drizzle with the dressing. Grate a bit of orange zest on top, if desired, and serve with the tiniest bit of flaky sea salt for finishing, if you like — but that exact amount is best left to individual diners.

Total time: 15 minutes, serves 4-6.