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This salmon has a phenomenal flavor

  • NEW YORK TIMES PHOTO

Wild Pacific salmon is available in spring and summer, and the flavor is phenomenal. It definitely tastes better than farmed salmon and is always a better choice, sustainably speaking. Though it is expensive, think of it as a seasonal treat. Whether you choose wild king salmon, coho or sockeye, take care not to overcook it.

Roasted Salmon With Ginger-Lime Butter

Ingredients:

• 1 (1 1/2 pound) wild salmon fillet, such as king or coho, at room temperature

Salt and pepper

• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

• 2 tablespoons grated ginger

• 1 teaspoon lime zest

• 1 teaspoon lemon zest

• 2 tablespoons lime juice

• 1 pound baby spinach

Lime wedges, for serving

• 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, green and white parts

Directions:

Lay the salmon on a rimmed baking sheet, and season with salt and pepper. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Make the ginger-lime butter: In a small bowl, combine softened butter, ginger, lime zest, lemon zest and lime juice. Add salt and pepper to taste, and stir well to combine.

Transfer salmon, uncovered, to the oven to cook for about 8 minutes. Check the salmon once or twice as it cooks. Depending on the thickness of the fish, it should be fully cooked when little white juices appear on the surface — moist and yielding with big flakes when probed. It may take 10 minutes for thick fillets.

As the salmon cooks, put 2 tablespoons ginger-lime butter in a wide deep skillet or large pot over medium heat. When butter is melted, add spinach and a pinch of salt. Put on the lid and turn heat to medium-high. (You may need to add the spinach in batches.) After 2 minutes, remove lid and stir spinach to help it wilt. When all spinach is wilted, turn off the heat.

Transfer salmon to a platter or divide among individual plates. Smear the remaining ginger-lime butter on the fish. Surround with wilted spinach and lime wedges, and top with scallions.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4-6.

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