Roasted cabbage is a revelation: High heat transforms the cruciferous vegetable, rendering it silky, tender and yielding. Inspired by leeks vinaigrette, these wedges are brushed with a lemon-mustard vinaigrette, chilled, then topped with a crème fraîche dressing and fresh herbs before serving. This salad-disguised-as-a-side is a boon to busy cooks, as it tastes best when made ahead and chilled, bringing an unexpected cooling element to the table.

Roasted Cabbage Wedges With Lemon Vinaigrette

Ingredients for the roasted cabbage:

• 1 medium head green cabbage (about 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 pounds)

• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice

• 2 tablespoons coarse mustard

• 1 tablespoon honey

• 2 large garlic cloves, finely grated (2 teaspoons)

• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

Ingredients for the dressing:

• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise

• 1 lemon, zested plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• Kosher salt and black pepper

• Torn fresh dill and parsley, for garnish

Directions:

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Prepare the cabbage: Peel any wilted outer leaves, then halve the cabbage lengthwise through the core, setting both halves flat on your cutting board. Slice them through the core into 12 even wedges (each about 1 1/4 inches thick at the widest point). Gently transfer them to a large sheet pan, carefully keeping each wedge intact.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, mustard, honey, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Brush half the vinaigrette over the cabbage wedges, making sure it drips between the leaves, then carefully flip the wedges over and brush with the remaining vinaigrette.

Roast the cabbage until tender, golden at the edges and caramelized, 25 to 30 minutes.

While the cabbage roasts, prepare the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice; season to taste with salt and pepper. (If using sour cream, thin the dressing with just enough water so that it can be drizzled, about 1 tablespoon.) Refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Let the cabbage cool, then refrigerate it for up to 2 days. Arrange the cabbage wedges on a serving platter. Season to taste. Serve cold or at room temperature, drizzled with the dressing (brought to room temperature) and garnished with the dill and parsley.

Total time: 45 minutes, plus overnight chilling, serves 8.