A classic recipe, steak Diane dates to the 1930s, when it was prepared tableside at restaurants with much fanfare. The piquant sauce, a mix of cream, Cognac, shallots and Worcestershire, is speedy and simple to make from the steak’s pan drippings. Flambéing the Cognac adds drama, but you can skip that step, and just let the Cognac simmer for 2 minutes to cook off some of the alcohol. Use any cut of steak you like. Even chicken breasts or pork tenderloins will work in the heady, creamy sauce. Serve with a simple salad alongside, if you like.

Steak Diane

Ingredients:

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 (12to 16-ounce) boneless steak, such as filet mignon or strip steak, about 1-inch thick

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as grapeseed or safflower

• 2 tablespoons minced shallot or red onion

• 1 teaspoon tomato paste

• 2 tablespoons Cognac or brandy

• 1/4 cup heavy cream

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

• 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce (optional)

• Minced chives or parsley, for garnish

Directions:

Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides of the steak and set aside at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes.

Melt the butter and heat the oil in a large skillet set over medium-high. Pat the steak dry with a paper towel. Increase the heat to high, add the steak to the pan and sear until well browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side and cook until done to taste, 1 to 4 minutes longer. If your steak is thick enough, insert an instant-read thermometer in the center to test the temperature: Rare is 125 degrees; medium rare is 135 degrees; medium is 145 degrees. When the steak is done, move it to a cutting board and tent with an overturned bowl or foil to keep warm.

Add shallot to the pan and sauté until golden, 2 to 3 minutes on medium-high heat, stirring once or twice. Stir in the tomato paste, mixing well and letting it deepen in color, about 1 minute.

Turn off the heat and add the Cognac to deglaze the pan. Using a long match or stick lighter, set the Cognac on fire, standing back and taking care. Let the flames burn out, then turn the heat to medium-high and cook until the Cognac is almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in the cream, mustard, Worcestershire and fish sauce, if using, and cook until thickened, about 1 to 2 minutes. Drizzle the warm sauce over the steak — you can slice beforehand if you wish — and garnish with black pepper and herbs.

Total time: 15 minutes, plus 15 to 30 minutes’ resting, serves 2.