In this classic after-dinner drink popularized in New Orleans, sweetened brandy is spiced with cinnamon, cloves and citrus peels, then set ablaze so that the aromatics can caramelize and some of the alcohol can burn off. The flame is dampened with strong coffee, then the whole thing topped with whipped cream. If setting a drink on fire makes you nervous, skip that step and just let the Cognac mixture simmer for 5 minutes to infuse before adding the coffee. You won’t get the singed flavors, but it still makes a tasty, bracing beverage.

Café Brûlot

Ingredients:

• 1/3 cup Cognac or brandy

• 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cointreau

• Zest of 1/2 orange, removed with a vegetable peeler

• Zest of 1/2 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler

• 2 teaspoons light or dark brown sugar, plus more to taste

• 4 whole cloves

• 1 (2-inch-long) cinnamon stick

• 1 cup strongly brewed coffee

• Ground cinnamon and whipped cream, for serving

Directions:

In a small saucepan, combine the Cognac, Grand Marnier, orange and lemon zests, sugar, cloves and cinnamon stick. Heat over low, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 1 minute.

Turn off the heat. Using a stick lighter or long match and standing back a bit, carefully set the Cognac on fire. Let it burn for 30 seconds to 1 minute to singe the citrus peels and cinnamon, then pour the coffee into the pan to douse the flames. Stir well, then taste and add more sugar, if you like.

Strain the coffee into mugs and serve topped with whipped cream and ground cinnamon.

Total time: 15 minutes, serves 2.