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The perfect pork chops for grilling

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NEW YORK TIMES PHOTO

Pulled pork is one of the glories of American barbecue. Unfortunately, smoking a pork shoulder requires a smoker — and a substantial part of the day to cook. What if you could capture some of that sweet, salty, spicy flavor in pork chops that grill in mere minutes? You can, and it comes down to the pitmaster’s secret weapon: a rub. Four seasonings are all it takes to make a classic barbecue rub, and you may have all of them at hand in your kitchen: salt, pepper, paprika and brown sugar. For extra smokiness, use pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika). As for the pork chops, aim for 3/4to 1-inch thick pieces that are as generously marbled as you can find.

Grilled Pork Chops

Ingredients:

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

• 2 teaspoons black pepper

• 2 teaspoons sweet or hot paprika (or pimentón)

• 2 packed teaspoons light or dark brown sugar

• 4 bone-in or boneless pork chops (each 3/4to 1-inch thick)

Neutral oil, as needed

Directions:

Mix the salt, pepper, paprika and brown sugar in a small bowl. Blot the pork chops dry with paper towels, then set on a sheet pan. Season on both sides with the spice rub, patting the seasonings into the meat with the flat of a fork. Lightly drizzle the chops with oil on both sides. Let sit at room temperature while you light the grill.

Light your grill and heat to high. (Note: If grilling pork chops that are thicker than 1 inch, heat the grill to medium-high so they have enough time on the grill to cook through without burning on the outside.) Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well: Fold a paper towel into a tight pad. Dip it in a small bowl of oil and, holding it at the end of your grill tongs, draw it over the bars of the grate.

Arrange the pork chops diagonally on the grill grates. Close the lid and grill for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then rotate each chop a quarter turn and grill for another 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. (This gives the chops a handsome crosshatch of grill marks and helps them cook more evenly.) If any flare-ups occur, simply move the chops to a cooler section of the grill.

When the bottoms of the chops are browned, flip and grill the other side the same way, closing the grill again. The total cooking time will be 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium (about 145 degrees).

Transfer the chops to a platter or plates and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes before serving.

Total time: 40 minutes, serves 4.

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