Tomato and cheddar toasts don’t need fussing — just crusty bread, swoops of mayonnaise, perfect summer tomatoes and the sharpest cheddar you can find. It’s in the construction where things can go from good to great. Instead of cheese that’s sliced (which can be stiff and unrelenting) or broiled (and coagulated), take a cue from Chris Kronner’s burger wisdom in “A Burger to Believe In” (Ten Speed Press, 2018) and stir finely grated cheddar into the mayonnaise. When slathered on hot, toasted bread, the cheese will melt into a creamy base somewhere between a queso and pepper-free pimento cheese. It has the pluck of sharp cheddar, albeit in a plush and delightful form.

Tomato Cheddar Toasts

Ingredients:
• 2 ripe medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
• Salt
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 packed cup (2 ounces) finely grated extra-sharp cheddar
• 4 slices crusty bread

Directions:
Arrange the tomatoes on a plate and sprinkle with salt. Stir together the mayonnaise, cheddar and a pinch of salt.

Toast the bread however you like. Right when the bread’s hot and ready, slather with the cheddar mayonnaise. (Extra mayo will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.) Top with the tomatoes and devour.

Total time: 10 minutes, makes 4 toasts.