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Recipe: Celebrate the season of kale

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TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE

A dish featuring kale is this green soup.

I’m not a fan of kale. When kale is on a menu and something else is offered, I always feel like I have been given a Get Out of Kale Free card.

But kale is in season, and it is positively stuffed full of vitamins and other things that are good for you. Besides, some people — even some people I know, probably — actually like kale.

So I decided to cook up a few batches of it to see if there were ways I could come to enjoy it.

And enjoy it I did. If all kale tasted like this, I might even become a fan.

One of my experiements was Green Soup — Caldo Verde — that a Portuguese cookbook calls “the national dish of Portugal.” One taste and you’ll know why (though if you want to argue that the custard tart pasteil de nata is truly the national dish, I won’t object).

The broth in Green Soup is basically a potato soup, rich in onion and garlic, and pureed until thickened. The green part comes from kale (or collard greens), cut into thin strips and cooked in the broth.

A slice or two or three of chorizo adds a nice spicy bite, and a few drops of the oil the chorizo was cooked in brings it all together into a hearty, memorable meal.

I stayed in the Mediterranean region for a roasted eggplant dish that called for crispy kale and yogurt.

It’s a layered dish, and the bottom layer is essentially tzatziki — a thick yogurt mixed with shredded cucumber, garlic and lemon juice. On top of that goes bite-sized pieces of roasted eggplant. The kale is next, but it has been flash-cooked so it is lightly scorched and lightly crispy. And the top layer is cherry tomatoes that have been halved and tossed with olive oil and salt.

To be perfectly honest, this would be an amazing appetizer even without the kale. But with a hint of bitterness to offset the oil and yogurt, the kale is a definite plus.

ROASTED EGGPLANT AND CRISPY KALE WITH YOGURT

By Bon Appetit

  • 2 medium eggplants, about 1-1/2 pounds total, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • Salt, to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 6 Tuscan kale leaves, ribs and stems removed, leaves coarsely torn
  • 1 medium cucumber
  • 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 garlic clove, finely minced
  • 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
  • Olive oil, for drizzling

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Toss eggplants with vegetable oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt. Roast, tossing halfway through, until eggplants are charred in spots and tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven, sprinkle with cumin and toss to coat.

Meanwhile, heat a dry, large skillet over medium-high. Add kale, arranging to fit in a single, even layer (work in batches if needed). Cook, turning occasionally, until charred in spots and crisp, about 4 minutes. If using curly kale, weigh it down with another pan while it cooks.

Grate cucumber on the medium holes of a box grater; squeeze out excess liquid with your hands and transfer to a medium bowl. Mix in yogurt, lemon juice and garlic; season with salt.

Toss tomatoes with a good pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil in a medium bowl. Spoon yogurt mixture onto a platter and layer eggplants, kale and tomatoes on top. Drizzle with more olive oil. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 315 calories, 21 g total fat, 14 g saturated fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 11 g protein, 26 g carbohydrate, 16 g sugar, 10 g fiber, 518 mg sodium, 125 mg calcium.

GREEN SOUP

From “The New Portuguese Table,” by David Leite

  • 7 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 1 large yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 4 cups chicken stock
  • 3 cups water
  • 1 bunch kale or collard greens, thick center stems and fibrous veins removed
  • 1 tablespoon cider vinegar (optional)
  • Salt and pepper (preferably white pepper), to taste
  • 18 or 24 (1/4-inch) slices chorizo

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium until it shimmers. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until light golden, about 10 minutes.

Add potatoes and cook, stirring often, until they start to spot with color, about 7 minutes.

Add garlic and cook for 1 minute more.

Pour in chicken stock and water; bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until potatoes are falling-apart tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, working in batches, stack several kale leaves and cut into whisker-thin slices.

Puree the soup using a handheld blender, or liquefy in batches in a food processor. Return soup to a boil. Turn heat to low, stir in kale and simmer, uncovered, until just tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Swirl in vinegar, if using. Season well with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 5 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium until it shimmers. Add chorizo and cook until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Let chorizo oil cool a bit.

To serve, ladle soup into warm bowls, crown each with 3 slices of chorizo and drizzle some of the flavored oil from the skillet over the top. Serves 6 to 8.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 6 servings): 537 calories, 41 g total fat, 12 g saturated fat, 58 mg cholesterol, 20 g protein, 22 g carbohydrate, 3 g sugar, 3 g fiber, 934 mg sodium, 30 mg calcium.

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