A fluffy baked potato is a glorious thing, but too often you slice into it and it is shiny and waxy, not light and creamy.

Baking a potato is the easiest thing in the world, right? Then why are so many potatoes lacking in texture and flavor?

THE BASICS

>> The right potato: First, for the traditional baked potato that is going to be loaded with toppings, you need a russet. Russets have a thicker skin and a beautiful starchy, snowy — almost meaty — interior that soaks up butter, cheese and sour cream. Red new potatoes or baby Yukon gold potatoes are great for smashed potatoes, but only a russet will do for baking.

>> The right temperature: For my latest cookbook, “Steak and Cake,” I tested several popular ways of baking potatoes. I baked them at 350 degrees and at 400 degrees. The potatoes took a bit longer to bake at 350 but they were fluffier, and had a better crust and interior texture.

Generally, when you cook anything at a higher temperature, the outside is done before the inside. That means you risk an overdone exterior by the time the interior is cooked through. Potatoes are no exception. That’s why I prefer a lower temperature. But if you like to bake your potatoes at a higher temperature, do so. It is all about what works.

>> Foil or no foil: I have friends who swear by wrapping the potato in foil before baking. I don’t use foil, but I tried both ways. The potato wrapped in foil was waxy and hard even when fully cooked. The foil also prevents the skin from become crusty, which I think is the best part of a baked potato.

THE PROCEDURE

>> Heat the oven to 350 degrees and place a sheet of heavy-duty foil on the bottom shelf of the oven in case any of the juices drip. Drips are generally not an issue for russets, but they are a big issue for sweet potatoes, which I bake exactly the same way.

>> Wash and dry the potatoes, then coat them with either a little shortening or olive oil — both work well. Prick them four or five times with a fork to let steam escape while they are baking. Sometimes, I sprinkle them with a little kosher salt to add to the skin’s flavor, but it doesn’t affect the interior.

>> Place the potatoes in the center of the oven, directly on the oven rack set over the foil.

>> Bake for an hour, then stick the end of a paring knife into the potato to gauge its doneness. It generally takes another 20 minutes to be perfect, but it depends on the potato’s size.

TWICE-BAKED

Always bake three potatoes to end up with two finished potatoes, so you can mound the filling over the top. I make them often for dinner parties since they are best made in advance and reheated just before serving.