This is the kind of substantial salad that’s nice to have on hand, no matter the occasion. If you have time, it’s best made with large dried white beans, such as cannellini, simmered at home. (It’s great to have a pot of cooked beans in the fridge all summer long, for deploying in salads and soups.) But using canned beans is absolutely OK. The recipe calls for roasting the cauliflower, but it could also be cooked on a grill to impart some pleasant smokiness.

White Bean Salad With Roasted Cauliflower

Ingredients for the salad:

• 1 small head cauliflower, cut into 1/2-inch slices

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt and black pepper

• 4 cups cooked white beans or 2 (15-ounce) cans, drained

• 1 cup thinly sliced celery heart (the tender inner stalks and leaves)

• 3 tablespoons chopped parsley

• 3 tablespoons slivered scallions

Ingredients for the dressing:

• 1 large shallot, diced small

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon lemon zest

• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, plus more to taste

• 1/2 teaspoon ground fennel (optional)

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to taste

• Salt and black pepper

Directions:

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Put cauliflower on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Roast on the top rack until nicely browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Make the dressing: Put shallot in a small bowl with mustard, lemon juice, lemon zest, vinegar and ground fennel, if using. Stir well to combine, then whisk in olive oil. Season to taste.

Make the salad: Put beans in a low salad bowl. Add celery and cauliflower, pour the dressing over and toss well, taking care not to crush beans. Let salad rest for 30 minutes or so to meld flavors. Taste and adjust for salt, acid and oil. Add parsley and scallions, toss once more, then serve at room temperature.

Total time: 1 hour, serves 4-6.