Enjoy good old-fashioned grilled shrimp

Shrimp are a treat and should be handled as such — and this recipe guarantees grilled shrimp that are reliably juicy, charred and seasoned. First, try this trick for plump meat with a browned crust: Stir a little baking soda into mayonnaise, and season it with salt, garlic and chile, which will intensify in the mayonnaise’s fat. Coat the shrimp in the mayonnaise mixture and refrigerate for up to 30 minutes, then grill mostly on one side to avoid overcooking. Eat over grains, lettuces, lemon pasta or noodle salad; in tortillas or pita; or popped right into your mouth. As far as seasonings go, start with chile and garlic, then switch up subsequent batches with lemon zest, Old Bay, ginger and more.

Shrimp With Chile and Garlic

Ingredients:

• 6 garlic cloves

• 1/2 to 1 fresh hot chile, such as jalapeño or Fresno (depending on the chile’s kick and your heat tolerance)

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise

• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

• heaping 1/4 teaspoon baking soda

• 1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on, patted dry

Directions:

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat. (If you don’t have a grill, you can cook the shrimp in a cast-iron skillet over high heat, with the vent on, following the same timing.) Using a Microplane or the small holes of a box grater, grate the garlic and chile into a medium bowl. Stir in the mayonnaise, salt and baking soda. Add the shrimp and stir to combine. Refrigerate for 15-30 minutes.

Clean the grates with a grill brush (no need to grease the grates), then grill the shrimp until well browned, 2-4 minutes. (If using a gas grill, close the lid to maintain temperature.) Flip and cook until opaque throughout, 1-2 minutes. Eat right away.

Total time: 25 minutes, serves 4.